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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Araps Rebolting 21-Dec-2005 At 11:35:20 AM sticky

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On 21/12/2005 nmonteith wrote:
>It has been proven (via reseach conducted by the VCC through CISIRO -
>i think) that glue-in carrots are
>inherently weaker than expansion bolts. The bolt itself is as strong -
>but the keyhole hanger method of
>attachment is considerably weaker due to the hanger folding open around
>the bolt head when loaded. I

Aside from strength, my concern with carrots is that modern lightweight 'biners are often too thin to properly anchor the bolt hanger to the carrot. I have a mix of Petzl Spirit, Black Diamond Positron and WC Helium biners - and the Petzl and WC biners sometimes aren't big enough to make the bolt hanger secure. Sure, it depends on the bolt, the hanger and the biner; but it's not the best feeling knowing that the runner you have correctly placed could dislodge itself at any time with a little bit of rope drag. And using wires instead of hangers is not realistically a safe alternative, in my view.

Kyle