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In Harms Way (19), My first retreat. 11-Dec-2005 At 4:57:50 PM hotgemini

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So, I'm on holidays in the blue mountains (having a great time, thanks for asking) and decided to try a new crag, a quick flick through the Carter Blue Mountains guide located "In harm's way" a three pitch, grade 19 sport route in diamond falls. Rapped in past Mr. Wall and admired the land of the hard men (complete with three routes covered top to bottom with quickdraws) and wandered up to sector 1 to find my intended climb. Decided with the g/f that I'd lead the first pitch up to the belay ledge with my backpack on, then she would take the lead from there with her backpack packed into mine (yes, should have only taken one pack).

Got prepped and started the climb, climbing up past the choss to the first fixed hanger and onto the very pleasant crack, reaching the first piton I admired its extremely rusty and disintegrating nature, clipped in anyway and continued up the still nice crack to the second piton which was still marginal but in better condition than the first. It did occur to me that pitons on a sport climb with a first ascent in the mid '90s was a little odd but I put it aside and worked upwards, fairly easily reaching the next fixed hanger just below the ledge which I assumed would be the first belay station... At the hanger there was an abandoned bail carabiner, which made me feel slightly less guilty when I hung my pack from that bolt before attempting the dificult move onto the ledge.

Got onto the ledge and found the next bolt, which was absolutely flush with the face of the rock, no way to get a bolt plate on, couldn't have even slung it with a nut had I have had one with me. Assuming I hadn't yet reached the belay ledge, I continued upwards through some rather pleasant climbing, and more pleasant climbing, and more pleasant climbing, until about 7 metres above the last bolt I came onto some harder climbing, but still reasonable for the grade, was feeling a little exposed but eventually reached the next... single... bolt, clipped in and convinced myself that the belay ledge must in fact be higher still, worked up a bit further (probably only 2 or 3 metres) to the next bolt and spotted a reasonable stance a little higher still, so I worked on upwards and much to my pleasure was greeted with the sight of another bolt, this time with two bail carabiners attached and still no sign of anything resembling a decent (sport) belay station. Was really wishing I'd brought the trad rack along at about this point...

Eyeing the rock above, there was a small roof directly above me, I climbed up a little and there was nothing more than a selection of bird droppings. A little higher still and to the left there was a bigger roof which corresponded with the topo's location of the second belay station, but from my stance all I could see was another 4 - 5 metre runout to a single bolt and by this stage I'd had my mornings worth of playing that game. In the end I rapped off and cleaned as I went, deciding that discretion was the better part of valour.

Upon returning home, a quick check of thecrag and one comment confirms what I'd found, the route is in fact very much a mixed climb rather than a sport climb as indicated. Note that I don't really hold it against the guide, I understand the huge undertaking which it is to create such a fantastic valuable resource.

So, what is your best retreat story?