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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Belayer knows best 8-Dec-2005 At 7:02:42 PM Blah

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On 5/12/2005 climbingjac wrote:
>On 5/12/2005 dalai wrote:
>>typical Ceuse routes has quite spaced bolts.
>>the draw somehow unclips itself!
>>Leaving him with now a potential fall of nearly the length of the route!!
>
>This really annoys me! Why must people bolt in such a fashion that if
>one bolt or quickdraw fails, then you deck??!!!!

WAHOOO!! I agree entirely! A sport route has bolts, what is the difference between say, six or eight? Leave the sketchy run-outs to trad. Spaced bolting implies to my mind either bad bolting or ego-driven bolting. Victoria seems to suffer from the whole space them ot bolting school... how many close calls before a deck-out? everyone says Bah, bolts don't fail, no-one will fall clipping etc... BUT just a little reality check, bolts DO fail, people DO fall clipping just there on the easy bit and qdraws DO unclip...plus a myriad of other 'unfoeseeable' stuffups. Live to climb another day I say! THERE ARE OLD CLIMBERS, THERE ARE BOLD CLIMBERS, THERE ARE NO OLD, BOLD CLIMBERS.... that is all...