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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author
Nowra Climbs
bmblydad
21/08/2003
8:16:55 PM
Going to Nowra the 1st week in Oct for 4 days climbing, after Corinnes bouldering comp, and would like to hear what people think are the best areas and climbs in the 14 to 20 grade range? Any must do classics or climbs to avoid. Am also interested in where to park for Thompsons Point to avoid getting the car broken into.
Malcolm

shiltz
21/08/2003
8:46:58 PM
Best stuff in the 14-20 range is at Thompson's Point:
Samurai Pizza Cats -18
Orca -18
Vanderholics -19
Gun Barrel Highway -19
Je Baise Ma Fraigne -20 (Tricky crux)
A Day at the Beach -21 (great climb if you want a stretch)

If you decide to do Woderwick-17 then be careful at the second bolt. Miss the clip and you'll hit the deck.
Eat My Spinning Blades-20 at The Grotto is a great little roof climb.
You could avoid the carpark by staying at the Animal Farm and hiring a canoe to cross the river to Thompson's Point (haven't actually tried this). What we did was just leave the car totally empty and unlocked. Otherwise they just drop a rock through your windscreen. Not sure if it has improved since, but I doubt it.

/Anthony

Hawkman
21/08/2003
9:05:47 PM
hey there,

i wouldn't worry to much with the thompsons point ar park. it seems to be ok now. i havn't had any probs there and i have left a drill and stuff in the car. although that is probably best avoided.

i would agree that thompsons point is the best for the grades you are after. hospital rocks is ok for top roping but i would head striaght to tp if i were you. also it the walk down walls at thompsons can get way crowded. they have some good beginner routes but the better stuff is further around.

try these
16- sloth- well worht the walll to the far end of the crag

17- slap and tickle- a cool arete up high, everything but the wasp- its worth the wall and is pretty long. but head- pretty funky slabby moves, mad hatter- a big traverse with a little bit of exposure as your on the lip of an over hang

18- diddy kong- nice face climb, vanderholics- good but way over rated, depleted gonad circ (the grotto)- awesome arete,

19- gun barel hwy- nice thin face moves, tour of duty- a pretty tough slab route, alien space monsters (the grotto)- envolves a step across off a block and then a nice long arete

20 beavis- nice crimpy slab, birdsville track- tough start, broken and barbed- very cool pretty pumpy down low and then up high is a good arete

21- a day at the beach- very fun, shifting sands- an easier version of a day at the beach, up the alley- absolutely awesome slabby climb. bumzek- pretty thin but funky

all these climbs are pretty good. you can get canoes form the ski park across the river from tp. its $7.70 per night with no shed and crappy facilities whereas the animal park is $5.50, no canoes but has a really good cooking shed with open fire and good showers etc.

you will pretty much have fun at any of the crags but this time of year the grotto can be a bit damp. mortein wall on bomaderry ck is a worthwhile excusion but the name rings true.

have a good trip

steve





bmblydad
21/08/2003
9:28:08 PM
Thanks for the tips, sounds good, we are staying in cabins at The Willows in town. Hospital Rocks for top roping? Is that because you can set up top ropes easily there or because the bolts are dodgy and shouldn't be led?
Malcolm
Dalai
21/08/2003
10:20:32 PM
Try Picture This 19 at Thompsons also for a bit of an adventure. Rapping in to chains at the lip above the Pocket Wall, to climb back out the slightly overhanging orange wall.
Peter
21/08/2003
10:29:55 PM
We are thinking of heading up in November, does anyone recommend a good guide book?
Dalai
21/08/2003
10:56:05 PM
Rod Youngs Nowra guide V2.0 published May 2000 is the guide to use. Can be ordered from the editor himself at Hangdog.

http://www.hangdog.com.au/nowra/

Cheers Martin
Peter
21/08/2003
11:12:03 PM
Cheers Dalia, its on the shopping list.
Peter
21/08/2003
11:14:04 PM
Sorry Dalai did a typo on your name, no offence taken I hope
bmblydad
21/08/2003
11:19:09 PM
Martin, I'm an old bumbly driving to Nowra because it has lower grade walk up sports climbs, a relaxing few days pretending I'm a kid with the kids. The guide book says "rap in from bolt anchor to hanging stance a couple of metres above lip. Up wall past bolts to top. Take 5 brackets & medium 'friend'." It does sound like a lovely safe "adventure" but doesn't fit the criteria, i.e. outdoor gym, easy ticks! Thanks anyway, hows the workload? Still interested in a training program for 13 yr olds?
Malcolm

Paulie
22/08/2003
7:29:40 AM
'Gunbarrel Highway', 'Vanderholics' and 'Eat my Spinning Blades of Steel' (at the Grotto) are probably my best choice of routes in that grade category.

For a great pump at a harder grade try 'Still lIfe with Chalkbag' at grade 23 - it's a classic line up a great arete. Also if you climb a bit harder and like hanging upside down you have to go and try 'Gas Krankinstation' grade 24 at Cheesedale right side - awesome!! :)
Dalai
22/08/2003
8:15:28 AM
Malcolm - I hadn't forgotten about that request. Will you be at the comp Sunday? We could chat then. Picture this has been rebolted, I don't recall having to use hangers or a Friend.

Peter - definitely no offence taken, but if it concerns you, messages once posted are still editable. Enjoy your trip in November.

Hawkman
22/08/2003
8:38:43 AM
hospital rocks for toproping cause its short and you can easily reach thte anchors. the bolts are all good though

steve

..::- Chris -::..
22/08/2003
8:51:36 AM
bmblydad:
The concern about the Car Park at Thompsons point is very very real and still around.
I have been to Nowra around 25 times in my climbing career and every single time someone I was with or who was camping at the Animal Park has had something stolen. (never at the Animal park have i seen anything stolen and the guy that runs it is a legend) I have had 12 draws stolen (By another climber) Mates of mine even had their Canoe stolen!! But in saying that I've been back there time after time so there must be something good there (RB's)!! With your Car, park it adjacent to the cliff , put the club lock on, leave the doors open and if possible the alarm on. This stops people breaking windows, and also makes it impossible for the thieves to roll you car off the cliff because they couldn't find anything (Maybe wives tale but worth a mention.)

Check out all the cliffs because there really are some amazing lines to see...

Summary of Nowra:
Nowra is also home the infamous and very very popular (Gimmie) Guaranteed you'll come home with your hardest tick ever !! Shinny RB's every 15cm. Ten meter roof climbs with the biggest holds you'll ever fall off, 2-5 minute walk in's, directions on every route as to where the holds and crux lie (just look for the Big bundle of chalk where the previous climber had been hanging on the bolt, touching the rock whilst chalking up.) You can give almost anything a go, because you can reach the next clip whilst your hanging on the draw (aid climbing as well!!) And at night if your feeling a bit frisky throw on your dance shoes and it's off to the highly recommend Legends night club, where the talent just keeps on flowing!!!!

I'll be up there the same week as you (at this stage) So I'd be more than happy to point the classics out......
PS: Take 120 litres of Mosquito's repellant (you can buy some more when you get there) you'll need it....
If it wasn't for the thieves Mosquito's and 9 hour drive ) Nowra would be a climbing heaven !! hehehe enjoy !!
bmblydad
22/08/2003
6:05:35 PM
Thanks all, Martin I won't be at the comp, it's my Dads 80th birthday but will be at the next one. If you still get down to the peninsula drop in, thats really an invitation to come and set some problems in our garage bouldering cave.

Hawkman
22/08/2003
8:20:42 PM
9 hours!! hehe i find the two hours a drag.

what climbs are considered gimmes at nowra? i was under the impression that a lot are quite good sandbags. esp in the higher grades.

steve


climbau
23/08/2003
5:53:12 PM
I've been to Nowra a few times and never had any trouble. But as the others have mentioned take precautions anyway. Can highly reccomend Diddy Kong and Je Baise Ma Fraigne at Thommo's. Like-wise Orca, Korca, Gunbarrel Highway, Vanderholics, Me, Hang on, Samurai Pizza Cats and Santa's Little Helper.
Have great trip!

..::- Chris -::..
25/08/2003
8:10:30 AM
Steve,
Perhaps it's the sport / trad thing, but I can tell you I don't tick 10 grade 20+ climbs in a day at araps or the gramps (Unless i did pilot error 10 times) Perhaps it's
the bolt thing or the style of climbing perhaps suites me, but I find I am not intimidated by the climbs at Nowra, I am more than happy to jump on climbs in the mid-high 20's and give em a go, and occasionally even tick some.... But some easier ones that come to mind for the grade
eat my Spinning .....20 (The 19 to the right of it is much harder...)
Still Life (Classic but me thinks easy for 23..)
Pauls ..(can't remember the rest of the name) 25 Planet C... good moves but again not grade 25.....
Chessy No. 22 (5m high boulder problem..)
The 3 roof climbs at Cheesedale right side are all easy for the grade 20 23 24....

But anyway I love the climbing at Nowra it's so cool and varied and perhaps I'm getting my confidence on bolts confused with trad climbing perhaps doing the same moves but 3 meters above my last RP makes the climb more difficult ?? It's hard to compare sport and trad grades really, which is what I was doing when I made the statement above, I'm thinking now if some of the harder climbs I've done at araps or the gramps had a bolt every 20cm would they still be as hard ???

Hawkman
25/08/2003
9:04:24 AM
those climbs are gimmes i agree.

mikl law
25/08/2003
12:22:57 PM
Nowra is fun, midweek is very pleasant. Take the grades with several sacks of salt though. Be happy to work routes, and also to try a few things till you know what you'll do well on. Anything with Greame Hills name on it is hard (and genrally rude too!)

I've never had anything stolen or know anyone who has over about 100 trips there, but if you have a flash car with cameras lying on the seat maybe. I think there haven't been any breakins for 2 years. A little miniature doberman was taken by an eagle 2 weeks back though.

Mikl

There are 20 messages in this topic.

 

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