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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Why isnt 29-Nov-2005 At 5:36:09 PM M

Message

i agree with ronnys well written and well thoughtout points however kent raises a good point also.
at places such as araps, gramps buffalo etc there is the potential for plenty of good routes. keeping the
style of the first ascent maintains a range of routes from really safe to extremely bold. the
decisions of the first ascecionist wont necassarily be the best ones but I cant think of a better system for
regulation. i dont believe that being the first to climb a route gives you any sort of ownership over it.

around melbourne or where there are only a small number of good routes i think that the style should be
one that is acceptable to the broader climbing community. although a consensus is imposible to reach the
first ascescionitsts would do well to allow moderate retrobolting on some of the potentially more popular
routes. in my opinion big rock at the you yangs is a good example of this. one of the closest walls of any
size to melbourne. grade 15 35 meters 2 bolts and no trad pro. (i know this has previously been discussed
elswhere) This is pretty easy climbing if you climb several grades harder than this but those climbing mid
teens miss out or take extreme risks. i am not suggesting heavy retrobolting but that first ascecionists
(sp) consider how more people could get some enjoyment out of local climbs.

mathew