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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Why isnt 29-Nov-2005 At 12:44:44 PM mikepatt
Message
Interesting comments Cruze, but maybe a bit too late for Tarana. As I understand the retro bolting there took place in the late 80s and as you mention on Deck Out Buttress. However there is a lot of variation in the bolting there; some lines are still solos where as others have two or three retro bolts. There are bolder, longer lines at Tarana; have you tried Up the Nose of Love or Fuzzy Navel?
The guide book does credit the first ascentionists and does mention the retro bolting. I'm not aware of the community attitude to the retro bolting at the time but I don't think anyone was incensed enough to chop them.
Since you mention Equilibrium at Booroomba two of the original four bolts WERE chopped, I believe to maintain a level of boldness consistent with the area. I led it back in the winter and found it much more comfortable than Fuzzy Navel, which, admittedly does have more bolts, but is steeper and feels harder.

p.s. hope I'm not jumping down your throat; for the record I am opposed to retro bolting, but I do consider the Tarana issues to be water under the bridge.

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