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General Climbing Discussion

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The Art of Onsight Trad Climbing 17-Nov-2005 At 9:26:35 AM mikepatt

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Hi folks, Here's my 2 cents;

1) If trad onsight climbing is your deal, how do you train? What techniques do you find most effective?

I probably get to the gym & top rope stuff 3 times a month. I'll climb for up to 3 hrs and basically just try and climb as many metres as possible. I also try and make a rule NOT to fall off even when top roping and in event of a fall or a rest/halt I ask to be lowered to the ground. Working moves may be OK for training for red points but I reckon if it's onsights you're after then you either can do it or not. If I fail on a climb I'll wait till the next visit to give it a go.

2) How do you differentiate the emotions and feelings you experience on a trad onsight vs. your first crack at a bolted line?

Not a lot; I try to onsight stuff regardless of the manner of climbing.

3) Where does the future of the onsight trad lead appear to be going? (does not include preplaced trad gear) What role will it play for future generations?

I reckon all climbers should have a trad apprentiship regardless of their ultimate style

4) What sort of mental prepartion and strategies do you employ when you are getting ready for an onsight trad lead at the edge (or beyond) of your current abilities?

I sometimes tend to lose a bit of sleep before a challenging (for me) climb. Ironically I often don't warm up, but jump on my chosen objective first up.

5) How do you get to that next level? The next grade?

In my case very slowly. However I do spend a lot of time climbing at my "base" level; that is the grade at which I've done the greatest number of climbers and therefore most familiar with. In my case it's grade 14. Therefore I feel confident climbing ANY grade 14 climb ANYWHERE. I find it's a good way to familiarise yourself with a new area/style etc.

6) Can the leader fall? Has this ethos changed?

I don't like falling and maybe fall once a year. As such I'm very conservative and don't ush the grades. I am however willing to climb less than adequately protected routes, chossy stuff and run stuff out.