Goto Chockstone Home

  Tech Tips

      Sponsored By

Chockstone Photography
Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
A1/M1 bolt ladders 12-Nov-2005 At 1:35:27 AM mrbumble
remember there is a very BIG difference between a bolt ladder and a rivit ladder. I've never been more petrified than on a couple of pitches which would have been rated C1 apart from a few copperheads, and they were the BOMBER pieces on the 50 meter pitch......

That being said I learnt to aid on a bolt ladder. Multiple laps do get the systems dialled, which makes the difference between a massively epic ascent of a route like ozzy, and a minor epic on the same..... When it comes down to it, aid climbing reduces to your systems, and the better they are the faster you go. When locals up here talk about the times they take on the beerwah bolt route ( 4 bolted aid pitches, ~ 160 m) it is clear that practise on their systems would make a massive difference.

So i suppose what i'm trying to say is that one easily accessible bolt ladder is handy. But i wouldn't be putting one up at my local crag these days. A similar effect can be achieved on an easy (aid) crack, albeit slower, and with more practical application than a simple bolt ladder.

Don't get me started on the bat-hook vs rivit/A4 vs A4+++ debate

PS the nose has no real bolt ladders.... Well minus the last pitch, and a short ladder between texas and boot flakes... But if i'd reached i was short 30 meters on the first (grade VI - ie real) ascent of El cap i would have drilled through the night too.... Especially considering the finishes of the closest non modern routes are at least a good full pitch to the left or right, and there ain't much to nail around there.... The pitch before looks like one of the most enjoyable 20 meter grade 20 pitches in the world though.

There are 18 replies to this topic.


Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Landscape Photos Australia

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.

Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | High Country Mountain Huts | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints