Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Rack for U.S west coast. 10-Nov-2005 At 6:51:47 PM sticky

Message

On 10/11/2005 Gav wrote:
Any info on rack
>to take for low to mid range trad single and multi pitch ( no aid or overnighters...)
> any scams to get it there cheap, cool climbs you might have been on etc
>would be fantastic.
> This is my rack now, should it all go? Do I need more...
> 1set each WC Rocks, wallnuts, BD micros, #4,5,6 HB offsets, #5-9 WC hexes
> BD Cams- 0.4, 0.5, 2of 0.75, 2of 1, 2of 2, 3, 3.5, 4, 4.5
> 4x60cm 2x30cm 6x15cm quickdraws, 3x120cm slings w biner
> 6 locker biners, prussiks, cordellete, belay and biners nut key etc etc
>All up including sack to carry is around 16 kg.
> Tips and tricks from people welcome as this is my first time there.
> Cheers,Gav

As for climbs, Mr Bumble will have better ideas than me (esp J-tree + Ditch), but in Squamish I'd look at:

- Ultimate Everything (5.9 A0) - goes to top of the Chief
- Deidre 5.7 (Apron)
- Calculus Crack 5.8 (Apron)
- Snake 5.9 (Apron)
- High Mountain Woody (5.8?) - Malamute
- Squamish Buttress - 10a? Chief
- The 5.7 at the Falls [Klahane Crack or something]
- Star Chek 5.8 (on bolts)
- The Angel's Crest 5.10c or 5.9+A1 - (short crux, easily aided on gear)
- Penny Lane 5.9 (Bluffs)

From my experience:

Most of the easy to mid range stuff over there is hand and finger crack or wider - so take all the cams and only grab the one set of nuts (and maybe the offsets). No need for more gear but if I bought anything over there it'd be some Aliens. George at Climb On in Squamish always has them in stock - $78CAN a cam.

Other than that I'd say you're set. Hexes are a luxury but grab 'em if the weight limit permits. Bolted belays on most multi-pitch climbs.

Kyle