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Cam sling replacement


dino

3-Nov-2005
1:58:16 PM

Anyone know where in Australia i can have slings replaced on some older cams?

And i should have said, i require them sown as knots are untidy and get in the way.

gumbywankenobi

3-Nov-2005
2:24:09 PM

Height Dynamics in Brisbane did mine for me a couple of years ago. I assume they still do them. Number is 07 3862 2533.


Sabu

3-Nov-2005
9:19:42 PM

buy some tape off a reel at any climbing store and tie the knot urself!!


steph

3-Nov-2005
10:01:28 PM

On 3/11/2005 Sabu wrote:
>buy some tape off a reel at any climbing store and tie the knot urself!!

Or if you don't know how to tie the knot, ask the guy who sold you that tape and I'm sure they'd be happy to do it for you. They even have hot knives to size the tape perfectly and neatly.


shaggy

4-Nov-2005
12:45:18 AM

Have either of you two done enough trad climbing to realise that tied slings suck? Especially on cams!


Chalk Free

4-Nov-2005
8:37:49 AM

On 4/11/2005 shaggy wrote:
>Have either of you two done enough trad climbing to realise that tied slings
>suck? Especially on cams!

I've never had a problem with tied slings. It will certainly be the cheapest option.

Could also buy the tape and then find someone with a bar tacker on their machine. Maybe one of those places in shopping cetres could help.

gfdonc

4-Nov-2005
10:41:56 AM

I used to tie slings (on cams and otherwise) with an overhead knot then tack the ends in place with a sewing machine to stop any chance of them slipping through.

Now I have heavier thread and a whitepaper from the thread manufacturer on seam strength (search for some of my earlier threads on this issue) I've happily replaced all my own webbing with sewn tape (I have an old Singer). Although I have not had any sewing formally tested, I am very comfortable with the expected breaking strain of these seams.

Bear in mind - apart from the aethestics - a tape knot reduces webbing strength substantially (30%). You've still got plenty of margin though.

I also heard (at Bogong) there are only 3 places in Australia that are suitably approved (UIAA equivalent) for sewing climbing webbing. Drop in and ask James for more info, or try 'Vertical'.

- Steve

JamieF

4-Nov-2005
11:08:51 AM

On 3/11/2005 dino wrote:
>Anyone know where in Australia i can have slings replaced on some older
>cams?

Dino,

If you get some replaced, can you let me know how much per sling?

Cheers,
Jamie


Phil S

4-Nov-2005
1:59:15 PM

Or buy a 200mm dyneema (or similar, skinny tape) quickdraw sling and larks-foot it to the cam.


LittleJames

4-Nov-2005
11:52:29 PM

I was under the impression that lark's foot (aka girth hitch) knots reduced the strength of slings by some hideous number - 30% or so, IIRC. Although I still find myself using them from time to time, I don't think you'd really want that much weakness built into your protection.

For piece of mind, I'd get them professionally sewn. A shop in Katoomba supposedly will do it for you, if you're up that way.

julian.A

5-Nov-2005
12:55:22 PM

Summit Gear in Katoomba will sew replace cam slings.


steph

5-Nov-2005
2:20:29 PM

On 4/11/2005 shaggy wrote:
>Have either of you two done enough trad climbing to realise that tied slings
>suck? Especially on cams!

yeah i think we have, and I've never had a problem. just tie neat knots instead of huge clumsy ones. I've only ever disliked knotted slings when threading pro (nuts and hexes), but you don't do that often with cams :p.


ice

5-Nov-2005
5:58:17 PM

You could always use buy a short length of rope and tie a double fishermans, aka old style trad pro.

Fish Boy

5-Nov-2005
8:25:03 PM

On 5/11/2005 steph wrote:
>On 4/11/2005 shaggy wrote:
>>Have either of you two done enough trad climbing to realise that tied
>slings
>>suck? Especially on cams!
>
>yeah i think we have, and I've never had a problem. .

I had a look at your thecrag ticklist....onsighted 1 grade 18, 1 grade 15, 1 grade 11 and 1 grade 10?

Interesting....lot's of experiance there......


Sabu

5-Nov-2005
9:19:38 PM

On 4/11/2005 shaggy wrote:
>Have either of you two done enough trad climbing to realise that tied slings
>suck? Especially on cams!

why does it suck? i just had another look at mine and i don't think that the knots are big enough to cause any hinderance when placing them. it's deffinately a lot cheaper and more simple.
Personally i would rather save money and have knots on my cams than to spend a lot of money for sown slings.


Nick Kaz

5-Nov-2005
9:45:21 PM

On 5/11/2005 Fish Boy wrote:
>>yeah i think we have, and I've never had a problem. .
>
>I had a look at your thecrag ticklist....onsighted 1 grade 18, 1 grade
>15, 1 grade 11 and 1 grade 10?
>
>Interesting....lot's of experiance there......

I had a look at both of your accounts fish boy for a grand total of 0 ticks!

I guess the point is that you cannot judge somones climbing history on some list that they may not bother adding all their ticks to, and it's a bit rude to call them out on it as well...

Knotted slings are ok by me as long as the knotts are small and tidy, that said I agree with shaggy and would prefer the sewn slings especialy on smaller cams.

Edited for spelling and grammer.


nmonteith

5-Nov-2005
11:01:11 PM

On smaller cam sizes the knotted sling section can be consiredably larger than the width of the cam -
thus it doesn't fit in the crack - and levers the cam strangley when fallen onto. Only a problem on thin
fingers or smaller sizes. SLings also have a tendency to loosen over time - very annoying if you have to
keep checking and re-tying them all the time.


steph

6-Nov-2005
12:19:59 PM

On 5/11/2005 Nick Kaz wrote:
>On 5/11/2005 Fish Boy wrote:
>>>yeah i think we have, and I've never had a problem. .
>>
>>I had a look at your thecrag ticklist....onsighted 1 grade 18, 1 grade
>>15, 1 grade 11 and 1 grade 10?
>>
>>Interesting....lot's of experiance there......
>
>I had a look at both of your accounts fish boy for a grand total of 0
>ticks!
>
>I guess the point is that you cannot judge somones climbing history on
>some list that they may not bother adding all their ticks on, and it a
>bit rude to call them out on it as well
>
>Knotted slings are ok by me as long as long as the knotts are small and
>tidy, that said I agree with shaggy and would prefer the sewn slings especialy
>on smaller cams.

thanks. actually at least this serves as a reminder that i need to update that list at some point. I gave up earlier this year when uni actually got challenging!! :p

Fish Boy

6-Nov-2005
1:06:40 PM

Hey Nick Kaz, I was not christened Fish Boy....


Nick Kaz

6-Nov-2005
1:44:49 PM

Yeah I sorta guessed that, so do you have a crag account then? Thats not realy the point anyway, the point was to say dont judge someones experience by their crag account its not always accurate.

There are 25 messages in this topic.