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arapiles info

ali64

28-Oct-2005
9:09:37 AM

Hi,
I will be travelling to arapiles (from the US) and was wanting to know some info. i will be there mid nov. what will the weather be like days and nights and do y'all have some recommendations for must do climbs. i only have one weekend. I love multi pitch up to grade 16 ( I think, lead 5.8 at gunks). All info and suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks,
Ali


nmonteith

28-Oct-2005
9:13:18 AM

Resingnation (14), Bard (11), Arachnus (10), Brolga (16) & Watchtower Crack (16) are all good multi-pitch
trad routes.

Weather shoudl be perect in November - max temps about 26'C - night temps down to 7'C or so...


Sabu

28-Oct-2005
12:29:56 PM

should be able to tie up with someone there, so they can give you some more info as well! enjoy!


The Elk

28-Oct-2005
2:17:47 PM

Muldoon (13) is a must do.
It's never hard too hook up with other climbers out there. Especially in November.
Take sunscreen!


cruze

28-Oct-2005
3:25:54 PM

Don't know how quick you climb but two solid days (November has heaps of light)

Day one: Kaiser-Resignation (linkup) (15) ; Scorpion Direct (17)/Ivan (12) ; Blockbuster (11); top-rope Missing Link (17) (off your own gear - not the rings). Great position way up on the Bluffs. The view is awesome.

Day two: Brolga (16) ; Bard (12) (day might be a little long) otherwise swap one of them for Muldoon (13)/Surface to Air (17)(the difference between these two is not 4 grades) or D-Minor (14)

Pretty much all these routes get full sun - so if too hot consider Eskimo Nell (10) for a shady fun day out.

Might see you down there.


billk

28-Oct-2005
3:28:23 PM

Start early if you are doing multipitches on the Watchtower faces or you'll fry. Take lots of water regardless.

Lamplighter, Arab and Saracen are all good shady multipitching options in that grade range. Eskimo Nell (Gr 10 or 11) is another good shady multipitch climb.


The Elk

28-Oct-2005
5:34:00 PM

Eskimo Nell is a great climb from memory.... I found I even got a little chilly during a hot day being stuck in the shady relms of the climb. aaaaah, multipitching...


nmonteith

28-Oct-2005
5:41:59 PM

If its too hot and you want a bit of shade i recommend Eskimo Nell (10). ;-)


richard

2-Nov-2005
1:31:27 PM

forget the bard (12) .. it's only 3 stars cause it's history value.. not awesome climbing.

A good hot day option is Agamenon (10) .. awesome chiminey / bridging (but not thrutchy at all - see the pic inside the selected guide cover). Very near muldoon, very worth doing.

Another good climb is lamplighter (14), also very good to avoid the sun on a hot day. ie you could do something on the watchtower faces early before the sun gets too hot (say Brolga or Watchtower Crack - both full value 16's, or mantle (14) a slightly easier version of brolga), than go and do lamplighter in the shade..then if you have a bit more time some fun single pitchs to fill up the day are trapeze (11), swinging (17) or coming on chris (16), both fairly near by.

Then again.. it could rain and be cold all weekend... the atridae is a good place to play which tends to catch the sun and avoid the cold south wind..

Buy the selected guide now!


Chalk Free

2-Nov-2005
2:54:23 PM

On 2/11/2005 richard wrote:
>forget the bard (12) .. it's only 3 stars cause it's history value.. not
>awesome climbing.
>

I disagree. It has plenty to offer.

The organ pipes has plenty to offer in the grades you are interested in. All are worth the effort.

Simey is a good judge, so anything recommended in his guide will fit the bill.
Really anything that has stars will not disapoint.

earwig

2-Nov-2005
4:47:49 PM

Make sure there is a full moon the weekend you visit so you can fit all these climbs in.


Paradise

2-Nov-2005
5:07:14 PM

On 28/10/2005 nmonteith wrote:
>If its too hot and you want a bit of shade i recommend Eskimo Nell (10).
>;-)

Eskimo Nell was only shady in the afternoon this weekend (from about 2pm at a guess) :( but well worth it :)

Would only recomend Lamplighter if you like chimneying which feels more like caving, it's only a small section though and the rest is all class. Can't go wrong with Resignation and Muldoon :)

If at all possible extend your stay!!!!!!!! You won't want to leave :)


kezza

3-Nov-2005
7:12:08 PM

Is resignation in the shade? or should it be climbed early morning/late afternoon?


nmonteith

3-Nov-2005
8:42:57 PM

On 3/11/2005 kezza wrote:
>Is resignation in the shade? or should it be climbed early morning/late
>afternoon?

It is in the sun in the morning - gets shade in late afternoon.

citationx

3-Nov-2005
8:44:34 PM

On 3/11/2005 kezza wrote:
>Is resignation in the shade? or should it be climbed early morning/late
>afternoon?

full sun.
i'll be down there around then too.
catch you in the pines!
-steven-


kezza

3-Nov-2005
9:16:12 PM

sweet, thanks Neil!!

Heading to araps friday night, for a full day saturday. Resignation is on the list, now just have to find something to fill in the morning hours :-)


alrob

3-Nov-2005
9:48:42 PM

On 3/11/2005 kezza wrote:
>now just have to find something to fill in the morning hours
>:-)

recover from a hangover. it work a treat for me the whole long weekend just passed!


kezza

3-Nov-2005
9:51:41 PM

hehe lucky for us you weren't near an internet connection for the long weekend Al!!


Paradise

3-Nov-2005
11:41:30 PM

On 3/11/2005 kezza wrote:
now just have to find something to fill in the morning hours
>:-)

Central gully right side or back of the Pharos will be in the shade :) Lamplighter in the morning followed by Resignation would be great for variability-have fun!


Super Saiyan

4-Nov-2005
9:55:18 AM

re: resignation

i have a mate who is keen to get on resignation but injured his shoulder a while back and is reluctant to get onto overhanging stuff... The third pitch is described as 'overhanging'... just how overhanging is it? what type of terrain? small? big? face? 3-d?

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