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General Climbing Discussion

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Rope management on multi-pitch climbs 7-Aug-2003 At 11:00:27 AM Mike

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I prefer to belay my second using a GriGri, which is great if they dog the route, or need to be hoisted past the crux. Takes seconds only to set or dismantle an unassisted hoist.

It depends a bit on the ledge or stance, but if possible I like to be sitting down (for comfort) to belay the 2nd, and generally belay off the harness. The main reason being that I've noted, dependant on the setup, the GriGri can become jammed against protuding rock if I belay directly off the anchors, stopping it from locking. I also like the feel of belaying off the harness finding it easier to know when slack or tension is required. I can escape the belay very quickly if need be so I don't see that as a disadvantage. The only disadvantage is, as Neil pointed out, the weight of a dogging second. And if you do perform a hoist off the harness it can be a back killer. If the setup allows the GriGri to sit well free of the rock surface, and the 2nd is likely to dog, then I'll sometimes opt to belay directly off the anchors. At a hanging belay, I definately try to belay the 2nd off the anchors.

There are so many variations. It all depends on the belay stance. Belaying the 2nd I like to be sitting down, with the rope running free of any lip or edge, zero slack in the anchors and preferably the 2nd in visual range if the terrain allows. For belaying the leader, I like to be standing belaying off the harness.