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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

leading new climb 5-Oct-2005 At 12:58:49 PM mikepatt

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bugger.. what I meant to say was hmm... good job Victorians don't argue or slag each other off...

But seriously to get right back to the start I reckon this whole redpoint/onsight business is a bit irrelevant, especially for beginners. Quite a lot of climbers used to spend an aprenticeship period seconding better climbers. If you do that every weekend for a year you'll probably second a whole heap of classics; thus effectively blowing your "chance of an onsight". Is this really important? If you wait long enough you can claim an "alzheimer's onsight" anyway. Also the whole falling/missing the onsight business can be pretty irrelevant on big remote multipitch climbs; If you have a short fall, say, on a long route in the Bungles due to a hold breaking off you're not going to say "damn, there goes my onsight, I'll have to return to red point it.." Most folk would just push thru and tick the climb.

In the end try and do the climb in the best possible style and just be honest.