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General Climbing Discussion

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When do climbers replace their gear? wires-cams... 4-Aug-2003 At 2:29:24 PM dodgy

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The only recorded "failures" of harnesses have been due to incorrect tie-in (the guy tried to sue REI and lost) or chemical attack (also other nylon gear like ropes). Edelrid had some "mystery" failures of ropes; they failed with very small falls or under body weight. It was discovered that they had been stored in the boots of older cars with just the fumes from petrol attacking the nylon. (I think a similar thing was written up in Rock a while ago).
Harnesses a ridiculously strong, I reckon most harnesses could have a LandCruiser hand off the belay loop, and only really ever take a bit more than body weight.

But age may be an issue, to quote my favorite reference;
"We took an 11mm rope that was virtually unused and had been properly stored for about twenty years. To look at it, anyone would think that it was in great shape and probably wouldn't hestitate to climb on it. The rope held one UIAA/CEN drop."

Also from "Rock and Ice - Gear"; page 74

"PRESERVING YOUR HARNESS
I've seen climbers wearing old harnesses that were incredibly tattered and faded. Dumb move. Although age itself has little effect on the strength of nylon, wear and tear can seriously weaken it. The industry recommends that a harness be retired after two to three years of moderate use, or five years of minimal use. The date of manufacture is now placed on a label sewn to the lining.
All of the manufacturers recommend that a harness be retired after a serious fall because hidden damage can occur. Other causes for retirement include severe abrasion, torn stitching, a damaged buckle, or fading of the webbing.
Is a six or seven-year-old harness that's in good shape safe to climb in? Probably. Is it worth finding out? I don't think so. Limiting use to minimal load applications, such as top-roping, may be an acceptable alternative to trashing the harness. But the newer harnesses really are nicer than what was available back then.
The big killer for a harness, and possibly its valuable contents, is acid. Even the fumes can seriously weaken the nylon, without any visible damage. Keep your climbing equipment far away from car batteries and solvents at all times."

(this contradicts the age statement but twenty years IS pretty old for a harness)