General Climbing Discussion

Topic	Date	User
More grading debate - oz Ice/Mixed	12-Sep-2005 At 11:13:22 PM	DaveW
Message
I second Nick's opinions that we should keep the fixed pro to a minimum (can anyone see the 30cm long bolt/chain/biner combo in the photo?) and use Scottish grades for Oz winter routes. The only exceptions grading-wise should be routes of exceptional purity and boldness, like my route Chuck Chucky in the Enzian area; Fifteen nearly steep metres of high altitude, high octane alpine extremeness. I freted over the grade for this for some time before settling on 5.13R WI 7 M12 A4+ (with heel spurs) or UIAA X, Scottish X11 V13 (without heel spurs). Note: Grading borrowed from "Alpine Adventures of the Reticent Marvel" in the July 05 Rock and Ice. V funny read.

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