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More grading debate - oz Ice/Mixed 12-Sep-2005 At 3:19:10 PM uwhp510

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Just came across this thread and having done a wee bit of ice/rock bashing this winter with the Bogong crew, I thought I would throw my 2c in.

In my opinion, Scottish winter grades seem by far the most applicable system to the type of climbing found up on Buller, Bogong and Blue Lake, due to the similarly variable conditions (sometimes really, really good and sometimes crap, but usually still climbable, and still fun but in different way when crap). Also the Scottish system covers the easier, mountaineering style rambles found in abundance in Australia, in addition to the harder end of the spectrum and deals with the predominately natural pro on Australian alpine routes.

The problem with M and W grades is that;
a) We don't have overhanging, bolted crags with icicles hanging down from the lips of massive roofs, requiring a complicated sequence of figure 4s and heel spurs and tricky tools developed for competition climbing.
b) We don't have massive, long, thick, vertical pillars of ice that go up for 3 pitches;
which these systems were developed to accomodate.

What we do have is rock that is frequently rimed, verglassed, often has thin water ice of variable quality and frozen turf, in which you (mostly) have to place your own gear. We also have gully routes on steepish snow/ice, all of which is well covered by the scottish system. The scottish system also deals well with harder traditional mixed climbing, which might well be developed into the future.

This is a picture of Steve on Way Out in the West (at Buller), which demonstrates the similarities (at least in appearance) with Scottish conditions (note the rime everywhere).

The system further accomodates the variability of conditions by not being too specific (for example, you probably aren't going to climb the waterfall if its not formed, but something like stonehinge, or steve's and my route (one in the face) still goes if everything is melting like crazy, they are just a bit harder).

The routes of note we've climbed this year (the Bogong crew of Steve, Dave W, Dave R, Rhiannon and I) I think would be graded accordingly (I've left out the tech grades because I haven't sussed out this part of the system, but these only would apply to the few routes at the upper end of what has been done...see previous post).

Way Out in the West- III
Stonehinge- III
-age not ing- III/IV
Central Pillar of the waterfall- IV
Hot Aches- V
Guttersnipe- II
Party at the Boss's House- IV
One in the Face- IV/V

And there is much more potential for harder lines next season.