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General Climbing Discussion

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Climbing Ethics 11-Sep-2005 At 8:40:44 PM tmarsh

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On 11/09/2005 tonybro wrote:
>Is Eduardo really suggesting hard climbers have no ethics?

*gasp*

>Or his he falling for the over ego thinking of:
> Eduardo is a hard climber and Eduardo has no ethics, therefore hard climbers
>have no ethics.

Before you go off half-c--ked, perhaps you might want to do a little research. The history of hard climbing at Araps is littered with 'ethical' incidents. Punks in the Gym alone has a history of chipping, glueing, retrobolting and chopping of bolts.

More recently, how about the angst over 'Who's a Naughty Boy'/'Tyrrany' at Stapylton. Route theft, followed by route vandalisation.

More recently again, the enforced sequence subsequent to the FA of Mechanical Animals.

>I feel sorry for a person with no ethics and no sense of logic.

And I pity the fool who opens his mouth before either knowing the history of this sport or indeed the present climate.

Didn't some mountaineer write that ultimate climbs are always attained by dubious means?

Eduardo's point is that rules that seem black and white in the general case often get bent or broken entirely if the climb is seen to be hard enough or the climber seen to be good enough. No-one is exempt. Even some of Victoria's most sacred cows have done a dodgy thing or two with a chisel, bolt or hammer.