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General Climbing Discussion

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Exploding Rope 7-Sep-2005 At 9:54:53 AM Aiko

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>>can can sustain 12kN for a very brief time before internal injury, ribs
>>breaking, spine gone etc etc most equip is rated a minimum of 15ish kN

I'ld much prefer to break a few ribs on a bad fall than to break the rope. Broken ribs heal, then effects of a broken rope often don't.
Don't forget to add the impact force of the belayer to the top anchor. Maybe another 70% (ish) so a 10kN fall may put 17kN on the top piece of pro.... (just guessing at numbers)

>There is a big difference between a 5m factor 5 fall and a 20m factor
>5 fall. The time which the force is exerted for is important.

I assume you're meaning FF2 (not FF5)
in any case, if it were static rope I'ld be noding my head with you, but for dynamic rope, I'm not sure I agree.
The time is important, I agree on that, but 20m of dynamic will stretch a lot longer (both distance and time) than 5m of dynamic, thereby giving the same impact force for the same fall factor, yes/no?