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General Climbing Discussion

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Lactic Acid Buildup 30-Jul-2003 At 7:01:45 PM Fi

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RE: Lactic acid in relation to climbing (and physical activity in general)...

During the initial stages of exercise at high intensity (80-100%), the energy sources at the muscle site are used (Creatine Phosphate, or CP). This can only last to about 10seconds before the CP stores at the muscle are depleted. If this intensity is kept up, the body switches energy systems (to the Lactic Acid system, or LA) to find alternate sources. This lasts between 10 seconds to two to three minutes, depending on the climber's ability to tolerate Lactic Acid. The products of this are ATP (energy), Pyruvic Acid and Lactic Acid. If the climber was to keep climbing at this intensity, the Pyruvic acid and Lactic acid would build up, resulting in blood pooling at the exercising muscle site. This is where cramp and fatigue set in. For the body to keep going, it must drop intensity (to between 50-70%) and the Aerobic system takes over. Here the byproducts are 38 units of ATP, Pyruvic acid and water (which are both expelled form the body as sweat). Pyruvic acid and lactic acid are toxic in high quantities, which is why it is sweated out, and lactic acid can be broken down by oxygen (in the aerobic system phase).

I would be looking at trying to delay the onset of 'hitting the wall' (ie. improving the time from where LA is too much and the muslces tell you to stop) by working on this energy system. Do this by trying to work at a higher intensity for longer (without completely overdoing it). As in any type of training, the best way to improve something is by working on it two to three times per week. In order to maintain levels, work on it once a week.

The Aerobic system is improved by working at a lower intensity for a longer duration of time (as Jac mentioned, laps in the cave; steady, relatively easy climbing; or swimming/cycling). Also remember to stretch, which also assists in the removal of lactic acid.

I'm not sure that Lactic Acid is responsible for causing muscles to 'swell', I can't say I've heard of that before - that should be more due to the buildup of endorphins... but muscles will definately cramp due to lactic acid build up.

There's just my 10c ...