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climbing near noosa?

ali64

1-Aug-2005
9:44:15 AM

I am travelling from the US and will be spending time in/near noosa in october and november. Does anyone know if there is climbing nearby. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Ali

IdratherbeclimbingM9

1-Aug-2005
9:56:50 AM

I am not a Queenslander, so more specific info could be obtained from qurank at
http://p223.ezboard.com/bqueenslandclimbing

Nearest multipitch Trad is probably at the Glasshouse Mtns about one and a half hrs away.
Noosa has an indoor climbing gym.
There is shorter stuff more local, that I have seen driving past but I am not familiar with it re access, routes or legality.

dalai

1-Aug-2005
10:00:07 AM

http://www.immortal.net.au/climbing/guides/sunshine/sunshine.html

You should also get more information through the Queensland forum at http://www.qurank.com/ where the above page is from.

Enjoy!

nmonteith

1-Aug-2005
10:37:07 AM

Yes, there is quite a bit of good climbing near Noosa. The closest is the sandstone sea cliff bouldering
area about 300m south of Noosa Beach. Follow the walking track from the north end of the Noosa
National Park for a few hundred metres to a prominant lookout. The cliffs are below this lookout. To
get to the bottom continue on for a hundred metres until you reach a beach on the left. Walk back
along the foreshore to reach the bouldering area. It has some good traverses and straight up problems.
It can be greasy in summer or at high tide. Bring a bouldering mat as some of the problems can get
quite high and have hard rock landings.

For roped climbing - by far the closet climbing is at the newly developed Mt Tinbeerwah - only a
15minute drive inland from Noosa. It is bolted volcanic slab climbing between 5.5 and 5.11d. The
access is a breeze - you park on the top and walk down to the bottom. It takes about 10minutes to
reach the climbs from the carpark. Mostly long single pitch routes in the 5.10 grades.

A bit further from Noosa is the sport crag of Serpent. Access is a bit iffy, you might want a local to
point you in the right direction. I suggest contacting them via Qurank. There is a about 50 routes on
this steep volcanic crag. Most routes are 5.10c or harder. There is one or two 5.12's form memory.

For hard sport climbing head 30minutes south from Noosa to Mt Coolum. There is only a handful
(maybe 10 routes??) in the east facing cave. Most are grade 5.12+. They are really steep and pumpy.
The longest and steepest routes in northern australia. The walk in takes about 15 minutes.

South by about an hour from Noosa is the Glasshouse Mtns. This has lots of climbing - sport, trad,
multi pitch and aid. The best mountain for pure rockclimbing is Tibrogargan (long mutlpitchs and sport
routes around 5.10ish and 5.11ish grades) or Ngungun\ (lots of beginner trad leads and a few average
sport climbs around 5.10). Teh glasshoiuse mtns are really spectacular volcanic plugs that have a real
adventure feel about them. Some of the rock can be fairly loose - take care.

nmonteith

1-Aug-2005
10:43:11 AM

This is a good pic of the bouldering area at Noosa.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=Show&PhotoID=18881

Paulie

2-Aug-2005
9:15:47 PM

On 1/08/2005 nmonteith wrote:
>For hard sport climbing head 30minutes south from Noosa to Mt Coolum.
>There is only a handful >(maybe 10 routes??) in the east facing cave. Most are grade 5.12+. They >are really steep and pumpy. >The longest and steepest routes in northern australia. The walk in takes >about 15 minutes.

They are nice routes indeed, very hard and super overhanging. The cave catches a lot of sea breeze and is in the shade (being a cave and all) so is quite cool even on hot days. The views out over the ocean from the cave are also stunning.

Paul

dan

3-Aug-2005
6:52:10 PM

I'm outraged, I used to live at Coolum Beach for a few years and had no Idea they were there. I was told it was outragously hard and poorly protected. But I'm going to find out when I head up there on the 12th. Await my TR!

Paulie

3-Aug-2005
9:00:43 PM

Yeah, those massive fixed hangers might pull at any second ;)

The routes are all very difficult and not unlike limestone roof climbing, big slopers and hard tension moves.

ali64

4-Aug-2005
7:38:43 AM

wow! such an abundance of info for such little effort. You guys are great. Thankyou.
Ali

gfdonc

4-Sep-2006
2:41:28 PM

(bump) Spending a few days there later this month on a family holiday (otherwise known as "forced break from climbing"). Any info updates would be appreciated, but will be walking distance from the bouldering so I'm planning to check that out. Any info on the gym?

- Steve

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