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General Climbing Discussion

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Smashies???

Justin

24-Jul-2003
6:29:54 PM

I was reading the ben cairn guide (eastern Vic VCC) and there are quite a few mentions of smashies and one of mashies ( i prosume the mashies is a typo but the smashies may be?) and was wondering what a smashie is?

kieranl

24-Jul-2003
10:52:24 PM

Mashie, shmasie , at best they are mangled pieces of shit. At Ben Cairn these are mangled copperheads in flared seams. I understand that many of these horrors have been replaced but I would check on that if I were you.

IdratherbeclimbingM9

25-Jul-2003
7:50:14 AM

Also known as bashies.

Can be copper or aluminium.

Basically a dob of metal swaged to a wire cable, and generally used in aid climbing, though I have met some folk (overseas climbers) who keep one or two on their rack as leave-behinds if they have to get off long adventure climbs for some reason. This practice could be risky as their main purpose would be for placements considered good for bodyweight and not much more.

nmonteith

25-Jul-2003
11:08:06 AM

They are mostly very dodgy - and in freeze thaw situations (like ben cairn in winter) they are NOT to be trusted. I have had several rip out/snap in Yosemite. They are designed purely for body wieght only. AT best they could be as strong as the smallest RP's.

Justin

27-Jul-2003
10:42:19 AM

thanks

There are 5 messages in this topic.