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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Manufacturing 16-Jun-2005 At 10:43:39 AM jiminy cricket

Message

On 12/06/2005 KP wrote:
>Theoretical question.
>
>THE most perfect arete exists.. Square cut and gritty... pulling onto
>it is a sequence of bouldery moves 28/29 (too hard for me) .. the rest
>of the route is amazing 24/25. One discrete well placed 2 finger pocket
>would make it doable and sustained, one of the better routes around melbourne.
> Is it that much of a crime ?

I feel a bit conflicted on this question actually. I would be annoyed that someone had drilled the rock unneccessarily but yet if the new pocket put this climb within my range, and it's such a great climb (part of KPs point), then I would go and climb it, and enjoy it guilt free. For me at least, the problem is not that the climb has been made easier, but that someone has seen fit to "damage" a common resource. KP question does say "discrete, well placed...", so for me at least, I see this theoretical case as a crime, but perhaps not much of one, and in my mind less of a crime than the widely accepted practise of wire-brushing routes, which has a far more visible effect and has the same result of making a climb easier.

Jim