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General Climbing Discussion

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Gym Grading 15-Jun-2005 At 10:00:05 AM sticky

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On 14/06/2005 Nick Kaz wrote:
>People. It's a gym, nobody goes to the gym to get their first twenty-something
>or V-whatever. Gyms are for training, I'm not shure a scale is even needed,
>just go there crank till your tired, if its too hard try something that
>looks easier, or try harder, in gyms grades aren't important.

My thoughts, for what they're worth- yes, gyms are only for training, but grades in the gym can be useful in three ways. First, it's not always apparent how hard a climb (even a gym climb) is from the ground. By having a grade you can tailor your training to the level of climb you want to do. eg, warmup on an easy one, then go up three grades, then up another grade, do four at that grade, then fall off and go to the pub.

Second, it can expose your weaknesses. The fact that I fall off roof climbs four grades lower than vertical climbs I can comfortably do tells me that perhaps I need to work on my steep technique! I'd rather find that out in the gym than at the sharp end desperately fumbling for a cam placement.

Third, it can provide good feedback as to what your training is accomplishing. If you couldn't dog that 16? 23? 25? three weeks ago, but you can scamper up every 19? 25? 27? now, then you can judge your improvement a little better. It provides motivation too.

Kyle