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General Climbing Discussion

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weird ways to get wasted - 1 23-Jul-2003 At 1:33:57 PM (removed)

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Mikl - never took the experiment any further than what I've stated. Knots were pre-loaded to prevent knot slippage vs and test was done 3 (I think) times each. Then I think I went climbing. Yes, the rope was static and around 2m-ish. Your points about falls in real climbing sound very realistic to me and prove how unrealistic lab-type experiments can be when comparing with the outside world. I think it was Edelrid who published something along these lines. I will personally use a screwgate on the first draw if a ground fall is a possibility bt not afterwards.

Anyone there want to do some tests with knots that haven't tightened, >5m of dynamic rope, a belay device (to compare ATC's vs GriGri) holding the rope at one end, an anchor point (with and without a quickdraw) and finally a bit of friction in the system ???