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General Climbing Discussion

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weird ways to get wasted - 1 16-Jul-2003 At 4:54:30 PM (removed)

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dodgy, they're just covering their bums (from a legal perspective) with that sort of statement. It sounds like it was written by lawyers not climbers.

I've found you've gotta be going fuggin slow for it not to lock. I'm another gri-gri advocate I must confess.

The dynamic belay one is also a mystery to me. The belayer gets moved up in the event of a fall thereby reducing the peak forces. I'm tipping the testing that was done (the gri-gri/ATC comparisons) were performed with both devices fixed rigidly via sling or something. In reality this doesn't often happen and when it does should probably be avoided anyway.

Additional loosely related note: Clipping a biner which is directly through a bolt exerts 5 times the peak force of one which is clipped via a quickdraw. This I can personally vouch for as I did it as part of my maths-341 modelling project at uni. You should be very careful when clipping a bolt sans quickdraw.