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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Burnley Bluestone - questions from a hack 24-May-2005 At 11:27:08 AM (removed)

Message

On 23/05/2005 James wrote:
>thanks & no thanks dalai!! *apparently* there's now more than one move
>I can't do...
6 and under (what your were doing !) is worthwhile too, although the cruxes are still hard both sides, probably 25-ish for the linkups.

I always felt 26 was stiff for the 5 and under river side since the crux is V4 or V5 in the middle and it's basically an endurance problem (with a hard finish if you go R-L). There's a couple of footholds that slope into the ground (with plenty of boot rubber on it !!) near the left hand end. These are "banned" by purists in the eliminates as the footpath level is lower than it used to be when they were first established.

The "7 & 2" problems Martin did looked absolutely desperate. 27 is plain sandbagging.

The "4 and under" city side is so hard it was easier to count the moves I could do than those I couldn't. Then again, I never cound climb 31 anyway so what would I know.

That said, there is an art to climbing bluestone that makes all these grades highly contentious. At the risk of sterotyping climbers ... For powerful gym junkies, these grades will feel stiff; for technical climbers with excellent footwork, they will feel about right.