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General Climbing Discussion

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Rope brands 9-Jul-2003 At 2:39:34 PM dodgy

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Edelrid invented them and are one of the best durability vs cost.
According to Clyde Soles (Rock and Ice's No. 1 gear reviewer), the most important part of the spec are "Impact Force" and "grams per meter". Impact force is particularly important for climbing on (unreliable?) natural pro, as it indicates the amount of energy the rope absorbs by stretching, whatever is left ends up being taken by the top piece of pro. Look for the LOWEST number in kN. (Especially if you ever climb on RP's.
The rope weight is simply how much you haul to the crag with you, my Black Diamond (Beal) Hotline 9.4mm in 60 metre weighs the same as most 10.5mm ropes in 50 metres.
Lightweight ropes are normally less durable though. Durability is also effected by construction, a "double pic" sheath has better durability than a "single pic" sheath. If you look closely at the sheath where the strands lay over each other a double pic is done in pairs. Edelrid say their new single pics like the Fat Rock are even better thanks to newer design. Double pic ropes usually dont "feel" as nice. Sterling ropes seem to be amongst the toughest but feel super stiff.
The core construction is either braided or unbraided, the braided cores dont flatten out as much and if you cut through the sheath the braided cores stay together. It's mainly in the mountains where this matters. I suspect unbraided cores make for lighter ropes.
A few ropes have a strand of "Spectra" in the core (eg. Edelweiss Stratos), this allows the rope to survive ONE fall over a sharp edge, the rest of the rope will be STUFFED.
Edelrid also have some ropes like this now but I think it's done some other way.

Dry VS standard rope won't matter for sport either, save your money.
60 metre ropes are nice on multipitch routes, but sport routes under 25 metres dont matter. If you have a 30 metre rappel you need two 50's (dont get caught).

Some general comments: Maxim and Cousin ropes (the ones I have seen in use) were CRAP.
The ROCA ropes often give (amazing) numbers of falls, but with (often) VERY high impact forces, this shouldn't matter for sport climbing.