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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Quickdraws STOLEN from Millenium Caves 4-May-2005 At 6:02:19 PM manacubus

Message

On 4/05/2005 dalai wrote:
>To me on sport and harder mixed routes, gear in place or not wasn't an
>issue. Onsighting placing draws felt a more rewarding achievement, once
>though it's a second attempt insitu gear is irrelevant. The focus really
>is the movement, clipping gear is just an annoying neccessity.

Totally agree dalai. After 10+ years climbing I'm only now coming to this conclusion myself. My trad ethics are softening (particularly in the case of hard trad where I didn't get the onsight - it actually seems contrived to place the gear each attempt). Still, I have a lot of respect for those who do the hard-un's placing, and I'm not even very comfortable calling it an onsight on a sport route if the draws are on.