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General Climbing Discussion

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Mt Feathertop

wee jamie

27-Apr-2005
8:17:56 PM

Can anyone tell me if there are any winter climbs on Feathertop, any crags/ridges/buttresses/gullies worth exploring? Obviously no really difficult stuff, but maybe some low grade solos

Otherwise, maybe someone can recommend places in Vic good for lower grade snowice routes easily accessable from Melbourne? Any distinct peaks around that are a bit more exciting than the rather dull-looking Kosiusko?

Need some mountains, and need them fast!!!

James

27-Apr-2005
8:54:43 PM

try Mt Bogong & Mt Buller. There's beta & pics & trip reports somewhere on c-stone (also the VCC Eastern Districts guide).


Paulie

27-Apr-2005
9:53:57 PM

As above, Bogong and Buller are perhaps the closest to Melbs.

Also Mt Hotham around Australia Drift provides good sport.

F/Top has tons of steep neve gullies and I would imagine that a good bit of exploration would reveal some nice mixed things also. If going out there make sure you take your skis/board, the riding is wicked!

Paul


cheesehead

28-Apr-2005
5:59:58 PM

I concur, no.1 Take skis and board too.

Blue Lake is also worth a visit (Koziosko park, not exactly a weekend trip). Closer to pure ice, rather than the more adventurous Victorian stuff

Bob Saki

29-Apr-2005
9:20:33 AM

The west face of Feathertop provides a good opportunity to practise alpine travel such as setting snow stakes, crampon technique etc..................

the East Face as others have indicated provide some of the best steep skiing in Australia in my view. This East Face also has some small mixed routes which are ok
beware the summit cornice though

but I think the best place to go is Blue lake as it provides an opportunity to practise a few aspects of mountaineering as well as pure ice climbing

dalai

10-May-2005
10:30:13 PM

With the season coming closer...Ice climbing footage from the Festiglace Du Quebec.

Warning 7.9MB

http://www.drtopo.com/movie/festiglace.html

tundra

11-May-2005
1:32:11 PM

"For a fun time out", from the saddle between the Little Feathertop and feathertop ski/board (optional) down the bowl on the far right of the east face to bottom of chutes, then cut left across the face somewhere between the trees and the rock ridges above to the large gully (avalanche gully) below the summit ridge propper ('bout 800m). Plod up 'til (100m+) a short rock band appears on the right (can dissapear in a heavy season). Traverse under this then over it and up to below a Steep wall with a pillar on the left and a narrow left leaning chute (80 degree / 1m wide) and corner on the right. Belay from cams at the pillar, traverse up and into chute (place a good medium knifeblade in horizontal at initial steepening, dig around) then run it out to the tombstone for semihanging sling belay (35m). Steeply up onto prow on left to straddle the ridge - along this to until it joins onto the face of the main ridge and belay. Traverse up left almost a rope length to base of second wall and belay, then up snow choked corners and ledges to top of this and beyond to crest of main ridge. Up this (60m) past some seeper sections to flatness beneath cornice. Boulder the cornice here (relatively easy even in big seasons 2/4m) to the summit. (cornice tricks are throwing tools on end of rope to dislodge the lip - stand back). Route Tops out on true summit on our maillands most 'alpine' profile peak' for full summit kick. Then ski down west ridge or west face (exhibition) to saddle. hmmm fun! Get up real early (5am) for full value (thaw-freeze) prickly pointing perfection (late August-Sept following a clear day & night, you might have to wait around for this) or do it in a storm for Pantagonianesque experience.
Check it! VGC. 3Stars ONO.


Paulie

12-May-2005
2:17:08 AM

On 11/05/2005 tundra wrote:
(cornice tricks are throwing tools on end of rope to dislodge the lip - stand back).

...and you stand underneath the cornice when you do that!!

For safety's sake, if you cannot get around them, I would recommend tunnelling under any big cornices.

..and why is this not in the E.Vic guide Simon?

tundra

12-May-2005
9:30:01 AM

Yep, It should get a write up, but no ones shown any interest: or asked. I have a couple of route descriptions for that guide... deadline is gone: yes? too busy working on Buffalo guide, no time to think about the others. Tunneling is good, we did it once but the trick is that at this point the ridge top is quite flat and you can be more methodical and less scared, even if it goes somewhere you wont. I was always more worried about a collapse when tunneling.

12-May-2005
12:38:09 PM

It's hard to ask about "the unknown unknowns", but now that it is known, howabout a write-up to make it widely known? It will probably be a couple of years before the E Vic guide gets reprinted but it'd be good to have it on file ready for the next edition.

tundra

12-May-2005
2:01:21 PM

Cool, I'm gonna be back up there this year so I will be able to get the description a little tighter not to mention some other interesting things like QuartzKnob environs @ Bogong too.


nmonteith

12-May-2005
4:26:00 PM

On 12/05/2005 tundra wrote:
>not to mention some other interesting things
>like QuartzKnob environs @ Bogong too.

I would be intersted to know stuff about Quartz Ridge. Jono and I were keen to head up that way this year for some further Bogong exploration.

kieranl

12-May-2005
7:25:56 PM

You *do* have to be careful with the Feathertop cornice - it has claimed one life.
Tom Kneen was killed in the early eighties. I think he was digging a snow cave but I'm not sure. It's not a big objective danger but it is a real one.


cheesehead

13-May-2005
12:29:46 AM

I've seriously been thinking about producing a Vic or Australian Alpine guide, rather than try to include such out of place stuff in the Eastern book.
This winter will hopefully be a big one for that.


maxots

13-May-2005
7:33:54 AM

with bogong buller and blue lake all in one big winter guide sweet!


Romfrantic

13-May-2005
9:44:09 AM

Hi cheesehead, about that winter guidebook idea....check your PMs.


The good Dr

13-May-2005
7:13:28 PM

>I would be intersted to know stuff about Quartz Ridge. Jono and I were
>keen to head up that way this year for some further Bogong exploration.

I have had a look at Quartz Ridge whilst slogging up it in freezing conditions one year. Not much good for cragging - a bit loose and dangerous getting down, thogh it is extensive. In the right years, it may be good for ice, It does face Westish so warm afternoon sun may be a problem. Need a year with not much snow, intermittent rain and cold conditions late in the year. Too much snow clogs the gullies and would be dangerously unstable with a build up.

Still worth the walk though. Quite spectacular.


Paulie

13-May-2005
9:21:41 PM

I would second the aspect concerns...though headlamps these days run for hours without needing new batteries...

Cheesehead - how about a "routes that require night ascents list" in that guide :)

Paulie

Honer

13-May-2005
9:44:03 PM

Blue lake when its "on" is the best around in Kozi, although for a weekend thats full on and hard yakka nothing beats Watsons crags(in all weather).


cheesehead

14-May-2005
12:37:52 AM

Paulie, Loving the Night Ascents list. At the 'piles there's such a list (eg, Muldoon, Tiptoe Ridge and Ali's), but that exists because of drunken debauchery and chauvenism. The "alpine start" list would be from pure necessity :)

We should dessent and have some winter hardmen with axes and beards and hexes and pitons faction of chockstone...

There are 24 messages in this topic.