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A short story 23-Mar-2005 At 1:06:41 PM LittleMac

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A short story from my early days of climbing.

Having done my first lead the week before I was filled with the exuberance and self confidence that is, the new lead climber. I'd successfully negotiated Phoenix (11, Tiger Wall) as my first multi-pitch and felt sure that I would be able to cope with Arachnus (9, Watchtower).

I headed off for the base of the climb with two of my fellow newbies who on reaching the base informed me that they didn't feel comfortable to lead any of the climb. Not a problem I thought, glancing briefly at my watch, 2.30pm plenty of time to get up and off. It was at this point that I got my first clue as to the epic I was about to face, one of my fellow climbers who was attempting to flake out the ropes had managed to tangle both of the ropes together in a massive snarl. Fixing this took some time and it was after 3pm before I left the ground.

The first pitch went reasonably well, nice gear, nice moves and a fantatstic belay ledge. Belayed the first of my companions to the ledge and instructed him to reflake the rope in anticipation of the next pitch. The second climber began climbing and after about the first 6 meters called up to announce that he was stuck. After some mild coaching and coaxing he finally arrived at the ledge somewaht frustrated and visibly shaken. Not a problem I said traverses are always the worst bit the climbing won't be any harder further up. Time 4.45pm.

The second pitch was somewhat confusng, after surmounting the inital difficulties and passing the crux I was confronted with what at the time appeared to be a blank wall with no obvious route. I called down to the belay to ask them to consult the guidebook. Just go up and when you get up a bit head right until you can find the cave. Ok seemed simple enough. Hang On, Hang On you can go right from there and then straight up if you want. For F#@#'s Sake which way do I go just tell me which way seems easiest. Ok just go up and then trend right. OK climbing. As it turned out the climbing wasn't difficult (although finding enough gear (with my miniscule rack) proved somewhat challenging. I quickly set a belay and called down for the first climber to start climbing. About 10 meters up I heard some shouting and what sounded like an argument, not being close enough to hear I continued to belay wondering what the hold up was. When the first of my comapnions reached the ledge I was to learn that their had been more rope problems. Time 5.45pm

The second of my companions began to climb in the now failing light. I was still fairly confident having heard that the final pitch was fairly starightforward jug hauling. My confidence was shattered when I heard the shout, I can't get the piece out take my weight. Waiting, waiting............................ Just leave the piece let's go. He reached the ledge finally just as the sun made it's final descent.