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General Climbing Discussion

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Havachatwithhexy... 9-Mar-2005 At 6:39:28 PM HEX

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WM --- while Lee's ascent is very good for an Australian within Australia,:D, by contempary world-class-standards itz ... I was thinking more in terms of the sort of ascents attempted&achieved by Jap-dude, Yuyi Hirayama :

'...Barely missing on his third attempt to onsight an El Cap route, Yuji Hirayama managed a two-fall free ascent of El Niño (30 pitches, 5.13c) on the right side of El Capitan. Over four days of climbing, Hirayama onsighted five 5.13 pitches and numerous 5.11 and 5.12 pitches. He freed the first five pitches in two days, took a rest with his family in the Valley on Day 3, and then jugged to the start of the sixth pitch and continued to the top over two more days of climbing.

Earlier this autumn, Hirayama attempted to onsight the Huber brothers’ 41-pitch 5.13 Golden Gate, on the left side of El Cap. He took only three falls on that attempt. As a warmup for this campaign in the Valley, he onsighted Uncertainty Principle (5.13a, 13 pitches) and Psychedelic Wall (5.12c, 11 pitches) on Sentinel Rock. Last year, *Hirayama free-climbed the Salathe Wall in 13 hours with no falls; he previously had attempted to onsight the climb, but fell several times*...'

I sincerely hope that Lee can sort-out the redpoint/free-climb/# of falls thingymajig, by returning to Ozy and climbing it trully ' continuously ' ,in a day, leading all pitches , with-out weighing-the-pro , bottom to top , smoothly and efficiently ...

Until that happens , I think many of Henry Barber's ascents in Australia are much more impressive ...
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