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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Grading Systems 30-Jun-2003 At 10:52:26 AM (removed)
Message
Rupert, you should try some of dalai's V1's lying around town, they don't feel like grade 21 either. More like 25 ...

But really, I don't think it's fair to compare, unless the route is especially short and the problem especially long. How can you compare Swing Wing (V2) at Arapiles to Birdman Of Alcatraz ? And being able to do one is fairly independant of being able to do the other ...

As for tricks to remembering comparisons with routes, this is what I use
US:. 5.1 - 5.9, just add 8 (approx), then
. 5:10 and above, remember tha a's and work it out from there:
  • 10a = 18,
  • 11a = 22,
  • 12a = 25,
  • 13a = 28,
  • 14a = 32
French Climbing grades
remember the a's again !!!
  • 5a = 15
  • 6a = 18
  • 7a = 24
  • 8a = 29
  • 9a = 35
French (Font) Bouldering grades I remember as being the same as their route grades, only capitalised and about 2 grades harder for the same grade as the climbing equivalent.

Interstingly, South Africa appear to use the same grading system as ours, but apparently it's not !. Their grades are around 2 grades softer than ours.

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