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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Northwest and Southwest Guidebook updates 31-Jan-2005 At 10:17:39 PM Robin
Message
Bloodline according to my memory was climbed on one bolt, near where the second bolt is. I have heard that it was cimbed/inspected on toprope so it wasn't climbed in the true spirit of a ground up ascent. Regardless, with one bolt it would very dangerous climb, potentially lethal. If it hadn't been retro-bolted I would say leave it as a bold lead but now the bolts are there and climbers expect them to be there I think just leave it.

Broomstick I think could be regraded to 24. It is only a couple of moves but they are bloody hard. I always compare it to Manic Depressive (25) which has a bouldery start then drops a couple of grades. Broomstick is slightly easier but no 2 grades.

Redex: Just ticked it onsight late last year, so I suspect it is not 24. 23 definitiely closer to the mark.

SPQR 3 stars? definately one of the climbs that I have my doubts about at Werribee. One star maybe. Also Hadrian, 2 star 16, it's only one move with a crappy finish. Conscientious Pontius 3 stars, nice crack climbing for about 4m, but not 3 star material, maybe one or 2 at the most.,

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