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General Climbing Discussion

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Northwest and Southwest Guidebook updates 31-Jan-2005 At 8:18:11 PM Robin

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Ok, thanks for the feedback.

Will, I still think Bloodline is 23. Camels' is my local crag and I couldn't count the number of climbers that think it is a sandbag. Even on Australia day I asked climbers what they thought of the grade and they thought 23 (they being James). A couple of weeks ago I onsighted Silvertop(22) at the Watchtower and it had to be at least 2 grades easier. Maybe Silvertop closer to 21 and Bloodline closer to 23? Anyway at the very least Bloodline should be written up as 'solid for the grade' or 'testpiece'.

Mikl; there is absolutely a place for bold leads and hence my strong opinions on retr-bolting. But Bloodline is the one climb that casts doubt in my mind about never retro-boliting any climb. Prior to retro-bolting I never saw anyone climb Bloodline, top-rope or lead. Now it sees heaps of traffic. I still say leave climbs as they are but now it has been retro'd I reckon leave it as it is.

Will: I agree if you climb Warlock directly up after the traverse it is about 19. Most people (myself included) choose to move left to the jugs then up. Maybe just leave it at 18 and those that step left get an easy tick, and the hard persons that go straight up well they earn the grade.

While I'm on the topic of stars and grades;

Sluts Honor (23) Camels I think deserves a star. Green Alliance(25) probalby worth a star, looks good but I can't do it. Dicky Knees Dihedral at Black Hill not worth a star, can't work out where it goes. Thin Ice at Black hill is not worth a star as it can be climbed high or low and the quality and grade varies accordingly.

Cimbs at Blackhill currently getting one star but probably worth 2 stars are Sqeal Lik a Pig, Work the Meat, Milawa and Rough Diamond. 2 stars would just highlight the routes that are considerably better than the other one star routes.

In the mean time I'll keep flicking through the guide and stirring the pot.