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General Climbing Discussion

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Petzl Belay Device 8-Jun-2003 At 6:59:04 PM Anthony

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Reverso - I recently bought one after dropping my old WC variable controller off a cliff. I first used one while climbing with a guide friend in NZ. He said that they have become the device of choice of lots of alpine guides in NZ. The main advantage for them is that the Reverso combines a variable friction belay device with an auto-locking capability - very useful when belaying up clients who may fall lots whilst also trying to sort rope/ meal breaks, other clients trying to jump off the belay, etc.

It can also function nicely as the auto-block in a crevasse rescue rig. The reverso is the latest of an older style of belay device that I have seen guides using for years.

Main problems I have found:

Much less friction than my old Variable Controller - I found this to my near detriment on a long single rope (10.5mm) free hanging abseil.

Once jammed in auto-lock - unless the second can take some weight off the rope - you will need to unjam it with a mini-Z pulley using a long prussik. If you are climbing an overhanging route and there is any doubt that the second can climb the crux - it will be essential that you have the ability and equipment to do this - as you will neither be able to raise, nor lower the free hanging hapless victim.

If you are going to use the auto-block capability - both the leader and second must carry prussiks and know how to use them.