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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Top Rope First Ascents 26-May-2003 At 7:42:06 PM Robin

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I still think a first ascent is a first ascent and it is legit as long as the style is properly documented. I wont get too upset if my M0's get struck out of the record books since both climbs I was on second and both climbs I later returned to free. I guess by documenting the climbs I was looking at being technically correct and providing a route description of the first ascent.

In regards to aid moves not being legit in modern climbing does that mean that new aid climbs or climbs with aid are no longer considered an ascent? Just being the devils advocate here, like I say I wouldn't be too upset if my first efforts were omitted.

In most cases I would work a route until I could do it free or if I wasn't good enough then I handball it to my climbing partner. The first M0 climb I did 'Hanging in the Gym' my climbing partner went overseas and we didn't get back to the climb for two years. The second climb 'Top Dog Dave' I didn't get back to for 11 months due to a broken wrist courtesy of 'Hidden Secrets' at Araps. So for both climbs I wrote them up as they were ascended and submitted the route descriptions.

My final point is that once your name is on a new route then you're stuck with the route description. If you've dogged your way up a pile of choss, placed inappropriate bolts and pulled on them then that is what you will be remembered for.