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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 28
Author
Favourite or best boulder problems

Tel
5/11/2004
12:45:25 AM
There have been numerous topics of late querying the hardest, best routes as well as grade differences etc. With that in mind I thought I'd tip my hat into the ring with boulder problems.
So wondering what are some of everyones favourite, or best bouldering problems are?
It would be preferable, if they were local, or within Australia, but if there is a standout overseas for you, well by all means put it in.

cheers
tel


Jackie
5/11/2004
7:53:29 AM
Well im not much of a boulderer, but in Syd on Palm Beach theres a big rock that provided hours of fun. Theres nothin too intense on it, jumping off and landing on sand was pretty cool (rare for us kids from melbs!)
M
5/11/2004
1:24:15 PM
probaby not one of the best bouldering places in Australia but Sqeaky beach at Wilsons Prom stands out to me. there arent a huge number of problems but there are a few nice ones and its a really nice place.
Its described in the VCC eastern vic guidebook or at least it was in the old edition.

elmo_lives
5/11/2004
3:28:19 PM
Lambaba at Baba Café
I havent climbed it (yet) but pilgrimage has inspired me
to make it to Hampi some time soon and give Baba cafe
a good shot.

Declaration boulder at araps is one of my fav's though.
Thats my kind of climbing.
dalai
5/11/2004
3:43:19 PM
Best problem would have to be 45 degree wall at Hueco (unfortunately the wall might be off limits now which defeats the purpose!) Proud independant line up the middle of the wall, with a big commiting dyno to the dish at the lip above a dodgy landing.
http://www.chockstone.org/Interviews/Martin3l.jpg
Midnight Lightning at Yosemite for similar reasons plus it's history

Arapiles - plenty of enjoyable moderates - 3 moves to glory on the golden slime boulder is good from a standing start (sit start doesn't add to the quality), pinch arete isn't bad, AAHC is good for a traverse.

Grampians - Can't comment as I haven't been out there since the Euro visits

Local Problems:

Origami arete at Cobaw is classic for a 6, high commiting topout. Has you hoping for something positive at the top which never comes.

plus other local problems I can't mention... ;-)

LittleJames
5/11/2004
5:36:32 PM
From the places I've been... I'm probably missing some.

UK: Most (but not all) of the stuff at the plantation, some of the stuff at Burbage (the end near the Fox House, I think it's South).

Grampians: Wimmelfriedhof. My favourite V5 yet and one of my favourite problems, period. Also Dead Can't Dance, as soon as I get it. (Heh.) And the Campground Traverse is fun if you like objective danger (ie barbed wire and a cranky landowner).

Canberra Region: Percival the Fiesty Mouse, fun little V7 at North Black. Zac's Arete (also at North Black, also, once I get up it). St Christopher (V8 at Pierces). And for sheer almost-died-in-a-stupid-fashion value, Sketchasaurus at North Black - V3 getting up, E8 getting down. :D

Other: There's a really nice arete right near the Wingecarribee River Bridge on the highway between Sydney and Canberra. It's only a V3 (if that) but it's airy, and above all, more fun that a barrel full o' monkeys. Oh yeah, and does bouldering the first few bolts of Biographie count? :D

alrob
5/11/2004
6:00:33 PM
Grampians: Plus V6 at Campground Boulders, The Campground Traverse looks great, but i haven't been on it. Spankin' the monkey bars V8 at Kindergarden looks like an awesome power endurance problem, but far too hard for me at the moment. Two Sleeps V3 coming out of the central cave at loopeys is great. Wimmelfriedof is great, but it's too powerful for me too!

Origami arete is a definate best 6 i've done, and one of the scariest, especially the topout!

THE best boulder problem for me is between 2 overseas problems, Gripper, and he Phoenix, both at Castle Hill in NZ. Gripper because it was 3 days of hard work until victory, including falling twice on the final holds, and The Phoenix becuase it has such a great rep, and is a stellar looking overhanging arete, and some of the more unusual moves iv'e done!
Setha
6/11/2004
1:53:27 PM
The Norton Summit eliminate problems are all mega classics!!!! And when I say mega, I mean ultra mega mega...
bne
7/11/2004
3:12:22 AM
squeeze boulder at araps is amusing....

- also, im here at work on a saturday. me and a friend have been finding bouldering problems in the office.

Rich
7/11/2004
6:15:14 PM
niice bne :) post some pics and topos?

sarah
7/11/2004
6:23:49 PM
yeh its very interesting had a go at that one when i was up there last, got scared and then got stuck, it must have looked pretty funny for those watching actually, will have to work on it

IdratherbeclimbingM9
8/11/2004
1:20:54 PM
On 5/11/2004 Jackie wrote:
>Well im not much of a boulderer, but in Syd on Palm Beach theres a big
>rock that provided hours of fun. Theres nothin too intense on it, jumping
>off and landing on sand was pretty cool (rare for us kids from melbs!)
Good to hear that this boulder is still popular.

I grew up in that area and used to climb on it before Bouldering became the sport that it is. Later on I also used to solo it and provide a toprope for my kids when they were learning to climb !
Over the years it was interesting to note the changes in its height relative to the most recent large seas / tides, eroding / depositing the sand at its base.

Have no idea of the 'official (if any?) grades given to the problems it presents, but I know that summer humidity can be a bit greasy there.
Goodvibes
8/11/2004
1:54:54 PM
Sloper Dan and Milo and kofi are a couple of classics at The Frontline at The Balkans that I really enjoyed doing, even if one did put me out of action for a few days. For me a really good boulder problem (in addition to the moves) has to be a proud, independant line and tops out. Grabbing a jug just doesn't feel as good as a sketchy mantle. I also prefer standing start problems as well but some sit downs are good, Sloper Dan for instance.

There were a couple of good problems at an area I devoped on the Central Coast as well but they are most likely covered in moss and dirt again by now.

It's hard to go past the Golden Slime though.

Jackie
8/11/2004
1:58:00 PM
On 8/11/2004 A5iswhereitsat wrote:

...
>Have no idea of the 'official (if any?) grades given to the problems it
>presents, but I know that summer humidity can be a bit greasy there.

Last time i was up that way I checked it out in the Sydney guide to Bouldering (that fairly new publication) and the overhang bit was about a v3 (i think) if you stay low all along the lip. The crack on the other boulder facing the overhang is about the same (watch the fall tho theres some crazy concrete slabs sticking up outta the sand, nice). I dont think there was much above a v3 really.

Woulda been good for the kids! Man you guys from syd tho, youre very lucky with all that rock just a little wonder away

Duncan
8/11/2004
2:02:11 PM
According to the guide, most stuff is between about 0 and 3, with a couple of 4's and a slabby as 8. Excellent boulder for sure. This is probably my favourite climb there:

http://www.unswoc.org/albums/Bouldering/yael_palmbeach1.jpg

mousey
8/11/2004
2:28:26 PM
midnight lightning and full house crack are the two famous problems id like to try. the mandela would be cool as well, but a tad hard methinks!!
i really like turbidity at mystery rocks, and balkans: sloper dan, milo & kofi, pockets of resistance, tonic for the troops and theres a few othersi really like but i dont now the names of since i dont have a guide
lhomme obu, the vineyard & american seige all look like awesome lines, but they're currently a bit above me :P
Goodvibes
8/11/2004
2:47:45 PM
Well go out and get one you cheap bastard.

mousey
8/11/2004
2:49:46 PM
haha im going to i dont have the spare cash at the moment
Goodvibes
8/11/2004
2:55:45 PM
Yeah well I guess you will need all you can get on your upcomming adventures. Maybe I could meet up with you down there one day before you head off and you could borrow mine, then again that would mean climbing somewhere else besides The Glen, unthinkable.

Garths V8 arete out at Tarana is pretty awesome. A striking line up a very steep pocketed granite boulder that Hopefully I will be strong enough to climb it by the time it cools down next Autumn.

Jackie
8/11/2004
2:56:18 PM
On 8/11/2004 Duncan wrote:
>According to the guide, most stuff is between about 0 and 3, with a couple
>of 4's and a slabby as 8. Excellent boulder for sure. This is probably
>my favourite climb there:
>
>http://www.unswoc.org/albums/Bouldering/yael_palmbeach1.jpg

Nice piccy! Where's the 8 located?

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There are 28 messages in this topic.

 

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