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General Climbing Discussion

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Top Rope First Ascents 25-May-2003 At 9:38:02 PM Robin

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I agree. First top rope ascents should not be listed as a FTRA. But there are circumstances where it would be appropriate to mention the first top rope ascent. One is, as Neil said, where there is a no bolt ethic. I seem to recall a climb at Kaputa that someone (Ian Brown I think) top roped because he thought it was unethical to place a bolt on that climb. Someone subseqently bolted and lead the climb but I think the FTRA should be at least mentioned here, as it was. Another one may be if someone top-ropes a climb with the intention of leading it but someone beats them to it.

Perhaps this should be another thread but 'should a climb that is lead with a point of aid or a rest be recorded as a first ascent'.

I've always called a first ascent with a rest a 'M0' aid, and documented it as such. The only two climbs where I have done this I have later returned to free the climbs. If I had pulled on a draw I probably wouldn't bother to record the climb but if I did I would record it as 'M1'

I see Daedelus has Dave Jones recorded as the first ascent but the route description says 'Originally bolted by Julian Saunders and led with an aid point,...' I would think that this would make Julian the FA and Dave the FFA.

What do you think?