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General Climbing Discussion

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Cant believe this talk about carrots vs rings 1-Nov-2004 At 8:50:08 AM Robin

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For what it is worth I prefer to use glue in machine bolts where the climb is vertical to under vertical, and where there are no natural gear placements. We use Ramset glue capsules, 4 inch bolts and rotary hammer the bolts into the glue. These bolts will never pull out of the rock, only down side is that the hangers under extreme load deform and pull over the bolt head. I have never heard of a bolt bracket failing due to a climbing fall and I've put many of them to the test over the years.

Reasons I like machine bolts are;

Visual - they are harder to see, particularly on granite.

Tradition - history does have a place in climbing and the carrot/machine bolt is part of the Australian tradition and history.

Cost and time - glue in machine bolts using the glue capsules are about half the cost of a ring/FH, go in quicker and have no messy glue or wasted glue nozzles.

Climbing style - placing bolt brackets on is part of the climbing experience for a climb bolted with machine bolts. Where a stance is tenuous, or the bolts widely spaced it does add to the mental aspect of the climb.

I do appreciate the counter arguemens that carrots/machine bolts are not 'best technology' and also that the actual climbing should be the experience not the bolts. But in balance I prefer the glue in machine bolt where appropriate.