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General Climbing Discussion

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3rd Chockstone Gathering 6-Oct-2004 At 3:14:41 PM Robin

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Ok, here's some beta on Tenneriffe. Climbing of all grades, best climbing between 16-25. Crack climbing, slab climbing and even some face climbing. Most of the rock is OK to good but there is some dodgey rock. Be wary of some of the grading as many routes have only had one ascent. Travel time from Melbourne approx 1 hour 20 min. Some bouldering has been done around Sparrow Slabs (couldn't find the original Tempest and Co bouldering mecca past Layback to Glory) but huge potential for more.

The best area with the most diverse climbing is the central area from Vertigo through to Casle Rock. Also beyond casle rock is the classic Layback to Glory.

Access and parking for a large group could be a problem if we don't organise something with one of the adjacent land owners. The owner of the Saddle Area is a mate of mine from primary school (way back in the decade that fashion forgot). He has a cautious acceptance of climbers but it quite adament that there is to be no climbing on his property. I may be able to organise to have the BBQ on his property. There is a level site near Shaky Corner that has good access to all areas. We camped there before on a VCC trip. I usually throw a slab of beer his way if he makes his property available.

Second option is at the far end near Lamb Rock, Outside Line etc. Access here is via Tim Simmonis' property. He is cool with climbers but access via his property has a couple of limitations. Firstly he is strictly religous so Sunday is not a good day. I'm sure he would be cool with Saturday and I also think he wouldn't mind people camping the night provided they leave quietly and discretely on Sunday. The second limitation with Tims property is that the access road passes right past his kitchen window. If we were to access via his property I think we should car pool as much as possible, perhaps meeting on the corner near the highway.

The third option is to have the BBQ in the (small) carpark below Sparrow Slabs. There is only room for about 2-3 cars here and one or two further back. I think THE BBQ will just about fill the carpark on its' own. If we were to have it here we would need to leave our cars down near the Hwy and car pool to the cliff.

Summing it up I think the first option will be the easiest if it doesn't push my friendship too far. Only catch is that I will be in Western Australia for all of November so wouldn't be available until 12 December.