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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 1 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 58
Letīs Harden UP!!!!!!!!!!!
Chris Sharma!
3:19:49 AM
Serpintine is Grade 26/27 Not 29.
this is a true fact and agreed by many.
so it is downgraded.
it only has two tricky moves the rest is a path.
Australia is getting a rep that every thing that is hard is actually soft compared to the rest of the world. (we dont wont to be the next thiland!)
Lets harden up!!
Sharma... that Chris Sharma.
any other routes that you guys and girls think should be down graded please let it out.

10:55:07 AM
have you climbed it >????
Chris Sharma!
5:30:25 PM
Yes. also there are other people from around sydney as well who think it should be down graded.
8:11:45 PM
Why is it that every few years a bunch of prepubesent tosser slime there way off the pox the call rock up there and clam to be well hard. Few years ago they were claiming that heel hooking was cheating.

Maybe the reason they have such strong forearms is they are continuously squweezing each others dicks.

9:14:24 PM
Ha! Bonjour! Hullo!

Yes I bet that fwanker Cossey...'yes that Cossey', wasn't even born when serpetine put up. I reckon 'the roving man of letters' should stayed year 1 finish school in the bit where they teach English and spell and write coss it to uderstand is hard with stuff and fer off this thing that was it could.

From what I gather, Cossey spent all his time at school in metalwork learning how to use a chisel, rather than paying attention to good grammar and communication.

Ha! Allez! Allez!

Enter Damo-esque delusional rappin

Je m'appelle Bourge
et Je suis funky
Je m'appelle Bourge
et Je suis funky

Baise ca booty
Baise ca Booty
puis Bourge et dans la maison
vous etes frois
le chats sont amour moi

Je m'appelle Bourge
et Je suis funky
Je m'appelle Bourge
et Je suis funky

Je ne pas jeune
mais je suis un alpiniste

Je m'appelle Bourge
et vous etes wankers!!!

9:39:38 PM
im sure thats a really funny song frenchie, but ill reserve the compliments till you say something semidecent/intelligent/humorous in english- better luck next time buddy

6:52:37 PM
My French aint good but this is how O transalted,

I m'appelle Bourge and I am funky I m'appelle Bourge and I am funky Kiss Ca booty Baise Ca Booty then Bourge and in the house you etes frois the cats are love me I m'appelle Bourge and I am funky I m'appelle Bourge and I am funky I not young person but I is a mountaineer I m'appelle Bourge and you etes wankers!!!

Okay so I used Babel fish, but its still crap rap :)

9:30:38 PM
Did you climb it properly?

ie Placing you gear on lead?

James Mc

1:00:58 PM
On 18/09/2004 Chris Sharma! wrote:
>any other routes that you guys and girls think should be down graded please
>let it out.

Ali's. Definately overgraded. At least 3 or 4 grades. Some of the holds look chipped also. I don't think anyone has every climbed it properly, from the ground up, placing gear on lead. Anyone here ever seen any one climb it?? I guess I should not talk about climbs I have not done, however.

1:09:13 PM
James Mc.... Properly? If it is done only on fixed gear is that a proper tick (putting all the draws on lead)? If Serpentine is 26/27, does that mean hairline is now 25, madge mcdonald is 22, superweak a tough 24, Rubber lover 20, Trix Roughly 23, etc...

7:04:41 PM
'what the hell is a centograph'- my pride and joy!! what do you do if you have to downgrade a grade 3 by 3 grades??

2:14:46 PM
he he he,
Riachard, I have actually seen someone lead Ali's ground up, placing gear, and clipping draws to the chains. Was a very funny sight. Maybe according to them, Ali's is undergraded???

9:11:55 PM
Yeah shaggy, your probably right!! - i have no idea how to grade a climb that low (and I don't even climb hard).

9:17:13 AM
On 21/09/2004 shaggy wrote:
>he he he,
>Riachard, I have actually seen someone lead Ali's ground up, placing gear,
>and clipping draws to the chains. Was a very funny sight. Maybe according
>to them, Ali's is undergraded???

Given how much of a slimefest it is, I think it could be bumped up a few grades for a free ascent. It is slippery as an eel
10:44:59 PM
( i thought this was a porn thread?)

there is quite some truth to that.

i have only ever downclimbed Ali's, and i grabed the chains as well.

lets not get too complacent with it, Ali's has been known to cause more than a sprained ankle.

A.K. Dancer
5:03:45 PM
I've had a been in my bonnet for years about the guidebook grading of serpentine (and let me clarify here that I have not climbed it nor will I ever but I reckon it was a visionary piece of work nonetheless) - I haven't got the book here and can't remember the exact numbers but it was graded something like 29 with a comment that it was harder (31?) if the gear was placed on lead (perhaps now they'll say 27 but 28 if you place the gear on lead, thats not my point here).

Am I the only one who has a problem with this kind of bullshit?! Since when have grades been given that didn't include placing the gear on lead? Is this what sport climbing has tought us - that a climb is valid if you ab-inspect and preplace draws? No, that came out wrong, of course it is valid and if you get up serpentine that way then well you have achieved something and experienced some bloody awesome climbing. But what I'm saying is that the climb is graded at the level of difficulty it takes to climb it from the ground up, no resting on the rope, all gear placed on lead (or however the first ascentionist got up it, and I know HB didn't claim the first ascent with the gear preplaced and call it 29, waiting for someone else to climb it in better style and up the grade). That is how it has always been and anyway I reckon that whatever the grade serpentine eventually settles at it should be for a ground up ascent placing all gear on the way.

Which kind of brings me to another related point - there are now a multitiude of terms describing how you got up a climb, and I gather that they were introduced to protect the priciple I have outlined above i.e. you climbed a 24 but you preplaced the gear/draws so its a redpoint. But what is it with the onsight thing? Most people are claiming to have climbed a (say) 24 even though they've placed the gear beforehand, and thats a bit rough but hey its a fair achievement so I'll let 'em have it. But just cos someone told you something about a climb, or you watched someone else do it, or you read it in a mag or whatever, people may actually try to take something away form you very stylish ground-up-all-gear-placed-on-lead-ascent (read: regular style of ascent)! I just reckon that is kinda wrong, and really wanky to boot.

anyone wanna flame me for these opinions? anyway I haven't time to edit - its 5 o'clock and we all know what that means - lets get down to the park and get messy to some fat beats!!

btw I think if someone felt they needed gear on Ali's then lets just let them do that without laughing at them : )

8:34:15 AM
Nice point...the idea of assigning different grades for different styles of ascent is ridiculous. The grade should represent the climb as it will be for somebody who walks along and climbs it from the ground up. As such it should take into account factors such as whether it is join-the-dots bolts, well protected trad or suicidally run-out.
If somebody pre-places the draws or top-ropes it then they shouldn't assign a different grade. They only need to mention their style of ascent. Otherwise every climb in the guide book will say 25 on-sight, 24 on pre-placed draws, 23 with top-rope, 22 if you pull on the third draw, 21 if you use the tree, etc.
12:21:39 PM
grades should just be given for the climbing it self.
if its a run out 24 then its a run out 24,if it has fiddly gear then it has fiddly gear but its still 24.
having extra grades for putting the gear on is completly stupid.
if you climbed it putting the gear nice one but serpintine is still 26,27 at the outside most.

1:23:14 PM
The "climbing itself" includes protecting the climb! That might range from clipping u-bolts to placing RPs. The total difficulty of the climb may be dramatically reduced if the gear is already in place. It can be extraordinarily difficult to take one hand off the rock for long enough to clip a draw much less place natural gear. The additional technique and endurance required is what earns many climbs their grade.
If you grade a climb 26/27 because that's how hard the moves are (is this assuming top-rope or lead with pre-placed draws?) then the grade will no longer give the climber a real idea of how difficult the climb will be from the ground. Ewbank grades tell you roughly how hard a climb is if you walk up to the base and climb it. Climbing with pre-placed gear will be easier but exactly how much easier is anyone's guess.
9:07:41 AM
i completly agree that it can be difficult to take a hand off to stick some pro in.
it can make the climbing seem harder but i think its better to grade for the climbing.
if you lead it placing the gear as you go then its an extra good effort.
its seems a bit contrived grading for the placments rather then the climbing witch is still a bit contrived.
but it is great falling off somthing easy with cams and wires in your mouth because you couldnt find a

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There are 58 messages in this topic.


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