Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Bryden Allen Crack-a-jack 6-Nov-2022 At 7:08:01 AM deuce4

Message

interesting about the anonymity on Supertopo. I compiled a list of people as a PDF from the "Who the hell are you people", but there are still people I communicate with, who know the ins and outs of the 70s, 80s, who won't tell me their true identity. Very odd!
(deuce4=John Middendorf, btw.)

THIS: Letter sent to Stephane Pennequin, master collector of clean gear:

The reason that I don't tell people about my version is because it was a complete failure. It was a bit like the left hand side of the second one you show in your picture. So the sling was attached to the left side, which would take the main force. The right hand had a small lever attached with a tube (to encase the screw) to push on the right wall.
But it didn't work. It was awkward to wind it up tightly and it broke with only my body weight on it. I chucked it away within a month and forgot about it. Billy More made it so I couldn't hurt his feelings and tell him it was useless. So I said it needed more work and forgot about it. I have no photos.
I have used all the many wonderful jam devices and they are mostly terrific. But mine wasn't. My contribution to protection was my carrot, bash-in bolt system as described in my site. For clean climbing this is good because the bolts can always be put in on lead, using a hand drill. But a jam device would be much better when possible.

So my contribution to clean climbing needed to be forgotten.
But thanks for your interest,
Bryden [Allen]
27 February 2013