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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Fixed gear guidelines in the Grampians 31-May-2018 At 8:17:06 AM Dave_S
Message
On 30-May-2018 rowan wrote:
> If you could use an expansion bolt that
>could also be removed so the hole could be reused so we don't have to keep
>sticking holes in the wall. That would be great.

Unfortunately even most expansion bolts aren't practically removable. It's really only full-sleeve expansion bolts like DynaBolts that could be removed, and even then it's with some difficulty. And then they have the downside that due to the fact that their threaded part needs to be smaller than the hole diameter in order to leave room for the sleeve, they require a larger hole than other expansion bolts in order to get the same strength.

But yes, bolts places should absolutely be designed to last as long as practical. That means epoxy rather than cheaper adhesives (like Ramset 101) for glue-ins, stainless 316 for all inland bolts, titanium for marine environments, using replaceable lower-off hardware on anchors for popular climbs, and ensuring tightenable bolts don't come loose (in order to avoid damage to bolt threads when someone falls on a loose hanger).

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