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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Fixed gear guidelines in the Grampians 27-May-2018 At 5:15:28 PM jacksonclimbs
Message
On 27-May-2018 rightarmbad wrote:
>Longer falls also give you more time to react, short hard falls can slam
>you into the wall with no ability to deal.

I'm not talking about bolting to turn an 8m fall into a 2m fall for safety. I'm talking about turning a 15m fall into an 8m fall. However, I'm less married to that point than I am the importance of redundancy in bolts keeping climbers off the deck.

>Half a dozen people can easily represent the entire climbing community
>if all points are raised.

How do you gauge the level support for each opinion? If this is about community consultation with the aim of establishing guidelines that will be accepted and adhered to, then there needs to be some legitimacy to those guidelines - if a large cohort have felt they have not been consulted, they're unlikely to adhere to them.

>I have a guide here that has seemingly endless climbs as you describe.

I'd be interested in that guide - because I'm not aware of any guides with 'endless' sport routes in the range I posted above, that are not already on thecrag.

>How many do you need before you develop the ability to move on to higher
>grades or more comprehensive styles?

Valid point on moving up the grades, I'd say it's around where I've states about about another 50 sport climbs in the 12-17 range. As regard to styles - some people have no interest in learning to climb trad or mixed.

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