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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Fixed gear guidelines in the Grampians 16-May-2018 At 11:48:25 AM (removed)
In the spirit of trying to be constructive and suggest a solution:

I'd propose a 3 tier structure:
  • Trad only - essentially on the same lines as Kieren's suggestion, but a strict "no new gear" policy ... for Rosea and the Fortress (thanks for bringing this up KL) and any others you feel should be in this category
  • Mixed - Basically the old school Victorian ethic of bolts only when it would be dangerous otherwise, and even then to be used sparingly ... default position for Grampians
  • Sport, we all know what this is, but you'd need to list the specific crags ... VD (actually that whole stretch), Spurt, Ravine, Clean Cuts etc. etc.
Rules around:
  • replacement of existing fixed gear, and
  • lower off anchors
  • any fixed gear for rap anchors
... would be part of the policy for that type of crag (and needs more work to flesh it out).

Then at least we have a framework we can respond to if a land manager complains. "Hey, we hear you, we'll mark that henceforth as a 'Trad only' cliff". That would surely have some value.

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