Chockstone Forum - General Discussion
General Climbing Discussion
|Fixed gear guidelines in the Grampians
||16-May-2018 At 8:47:21 AM
|On 16-May-2018 kieranl wrote:
>The point of the thread isn't to solve the issue. The point is to start
>a conversation with the people and trolls who still look at this site about
>how we can manage crag development in the Grampians.
>These internet forums are imperfect places to hold good conversations.
>Thread drift, trolling, personal attacks, anonymous users are all part
>of lightly moderated forums. There's nothing unique about chockstone in
>this regard. So we might make loud noises here, but it doesn't mean we
>are necessarily as important as we like to think.
>Most of the important stuff is in the first few posts.
>At this stage it's about the Grampians. If a good process comes out of
>it then it should transfer to other places.
>Apart from Stapylton where there is a complex mix of trad, sport, and
>bouldering I think we can generally look at areas rather than individual
>crags or faces.
>So, The Fortress Massif could be looked at as a whole.
>It's in a remote and Natural Area. There are nearby indigenous sites.
>Historically it's almost exclusively trad. I heard that there is one sport
>route but I don't know where it is. There is a major mixed climb with
>about 10 bolts on the Crimson Tower. There may be some belay bolts below
>the roof on Passport placed subsequent to the FA.
>My take on this would be : No further fixed gear, either bolts, pitons
>or slings in the Fortress Massif. Remove the sport climb. Leave any belay
>bolts below Passport roof as removing them will likely result in retreat
>slings being added. Consult further regarding whether to remove mixed route
>on Crimson Tower; I would opt for remove.
What's happening - I agree pretty much with all of that. And yes, I'd argue that many have indeed lost sight that it's actually about The Grampians, not my right to climb in a style of my choosing.
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