Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

New bolt on Blimp - Bundaleer 7-May-2018 At 6:01:29 PM IdratherbeclimbingM9

Message

On 7-May-2018 The good Dr wrote:
>From Jim Titt (Bolt Products - Germany) after extensive testing of various
>pitons in an attempt to design a corrosion resistant pin to put to market
>....
>
>"Conclusions
>The result of producing nice corrosion resistant pitons is that climbers
>may blindly trust them with potentially fatal results.
>
>Climbers from previous generations rightly distrust in situ pegs, rusting
>or not, and anyway usually have a healthy aversion to falling off! The
>modern sport and indoor climbing generation may tend to see shiny and think
>strong with the inevitable consequences.
>
>A peg can only be trusted on the day it was placed. Only the climber who
>placed it can give an opinion on its reliability, anything else is only
>a guess.
>
>My feeling is that to put corrosion resistant pegs on the market for permanent
>placements would be irresponsible and other solutions need to be found."

Hmm.
I'm not entirely convinced that pitons were ever intended as 'permanent placements' once the golden age of their use came into being...
If so, why did Yvon Chouinard 'invent' the hardened steel re-usable piton?