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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
The Irish Solution to The Ben Lomond Problem 24-Jan-2018 At 4:03:38 PM ima.seriousyoungliza
Message
http://www.thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Ben+Lomond+-+Southern+Escarpment

The Trinity Split (24) goes direct up the face L of Aqualung and R of Blue Eyed Son. Four pitches, 22, 24, 23 and 19, involving spectacular face climbing in some very runout situations. It was first attempted a few years ago by another party and a bolt from that attempt has been removed, but one of their pitons remains insitu: it was not clipped as there is a good cam placement next to it.
Gerry Narkowicz and Pat Butler, 2012.

Gerry NarkowiczMar 14, 2007
Stacks Bluff is on Ben Lomond and will remain bolt free, like all the other cliffs on the mountain. MInd you, I have felt tempted to put a bolt or two in at Africa - many big faces but no gear - however we need to respect the trad ethic that has prevailed since the early 70's. - some hard core trad climber will come along one day and lead those faces and aretes at Stacks and run it out from r.ps on 26+ climbing. They do it in England, but no-ones got the balls to do it Tassie.


...GERRY G-BANGA....every couple of years you get wobbly at the knees over this issue .......ya don't need balls to chop bolts put in by idiots .... or to climb 5.12 faces with rps......YOU JUST NEED ATTITUDE....

http://www.abc.net.au/news/2018-01-24/miranda-gibson-australias-longest-running-tree-sitter/9335934





.....lest we forget...

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