OK, i think i have "the" solution. It has everything, tradition ethics, ropes that are long enough no bolts and bulk convienience.
It works like this, most of the people posting here don't climb regularly at The Ben, but Gerry does and it's hard to find the routes from the top, but not for him, you don't own a long static, but he does.
So you get to Launeston airport, ring up Gerry, he comes out with his long static and drops it down at the appropriate spot for you to flail up Barbe and Rajah, relise you don't have enough cams, tape or arm power. The guide book is kind of confusing, so Gerry can explain directly how good the other routes are and you can tell yourself that next time you come back you'll defo do Ramadan.
If you feel like bolting something, you'll save the hassle as Gerry is already up there to chop it and if you can't find the slippery slope Gerry can point you down the correct gully. |