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New anchors at Araps - What do you reckon? 10-Jan-2017 At 9:53:09 AM Eduardo Slabofvic

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On 10/01/2017 kieranl wrote:
>On 9/01/2017 Eduardo Slabofvic wrote:
>>On 9/01/2017 gordoste wrote:
>>> at Araps anchors should only be placed for erosion prevention
>>>or where other descent options are too dangerous.
>>
>>Agreed
>>
>>So a rap station that services an area. Not rap stations that service
>>routes.
>Good in principle, not always feasible. Morfydd,Kinkaid area for example.

That would be one of the places that I would use as an example of what not to do. There are 5 anchors within spitting distance of each other. Even given that traffic down the Alis descent, 5 is way over the top.

Plus, there are way more anchors, lower offs and rap stations than you mention in your earlier post. Way way way more.

E.g. (not the definitive list) 2 on top of Castle Crag. 2 on top of Coming on chris. Why do we need two in these locations? There's 4 in the touchstone area. there's plenty more, and there'll never be less (except if you count the ones that used to be on top of Kachoong which got chopped).
>
>>
>>and 1 rap station for the area, not three (or 4, or 5);
>Some areas are so heavily used that the single rap station becomes a choke
>point and risk (eg Preludes Wall)
>
>> and that rap station
>>shouldn't place the fall line over another route that someone might be
>>on.
>In practice very difficult to achieve. If you look around there's not
>that many raps at Arapiles that meet this brief. One of the ironies is
>that putting a rap station above a piece of rock that people rarely climb
>can change that situation (eg Skylark)

No so difficult to achieve. Routes aren't that close together. Step left 2m. The rap off of the top of Preludes wall could have been moved 2m left and avoided being over the top of that route and still been easy to access.

>
>>
>>Plus rap stations, not anchors - as they're different things.
>>
>>
>Agreed
Agreed The new ones on the back side of Mitre aren't even equalised. and those ones on the top of Dunes are crap

>
>These are all things to keep in mind when planning a rap point but as
>rigid rules they often don't work.